I’m not sure what’s happening here. Maybe some of my readers blew all their money on an HDTV. For whatever reason, a number are writing to ask about using an antenna with their new HDTVs.
These readers don’t plan to get cable or use satellite. They are taking their HDTV and heading back to the “Leave it to Beaver” days of using an antenna.
They came to the right place. I’ve built enough antennas for my ham radio hobby to get truckload rates on aluminum tubing.
They may even be onto something. HDTV picture quality with an antenna is better than cable or satellite. Why? Over-the-air signals get much less compression than when delivered via cable or satellite.
If you’re interested in trying antenna reception, the place to start is http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx. It’s a terrific site that will use your address to tell you how far away you are from transmitting towers, along with the compass direction to those towers. It also will tell you the type of antenna you need.
Some readers test the waters using rabbit ears. Depending on how close you are to the transmission sites you may be able to get away with that. I can get a few stations from my in-town Atlanta location that way.
But if the antenna was my only source of HDTV I’d want to do better. Let’s start with the Golden Rule of antennas: They should be as high as possible and as big as your spouse will allow. For most locations, it’s also good to have a rotor that can turn the antenna toward antenna sites.
Of course, some folks would rather not have an antenna poking above the roofline. There’s still an option that’s a big step up from rabbit ears: an attic antenna. You can Google and find plenty. This site tells you how to install one: http://www.terrestrial-digital.com/attic_installation.html
No special antenna is necessary, as long as it fits. You can usually find some labeled “indoor or outdoor antenna.”
If you don’t have an attic but don’t want a tall antenna, these indoor/outdoor models are designed to be unobtrustive. Radio Shack offers some and you’ll find plenty of others using Google.
For those who plan to use a regular outdoor antenna, there’s no substitute for one called a yagi. If you’re old enough to remember the conventional antennas that once dotted every rooftop, you’ve seen them.
You may be able to mount it on a simple mast strapped to your chimney, or a ground mounted mast attached to the side of your house. If you plan to install the mast yourself, get advice at the bottom of this page: http://tvantenna.soccerr.net/howto.htm
A small warning: If you do a substandard job, the whole thing can come tumbling down. If you have any doubt, ask for installer recommendations when you buy the antenna.
A big warning: If a mast touches an electrial wire while you’re holding it, you are dead. If it falls on a wire later, it can start a fire. Here’s my safety rule: If the mast is 30 feet high do not get it within 60 feet of an electrical wire at any time. If it’s 20 feet high, keep it at least 40 feet away.
You’ll probably need a rotor to turn your antenna. Spend a little extra and buy a rotor that contains a brake — it works like the brakes on your car. Otherwise the wind can push your antenna around and break the gears. You have to take the whole antenna system down to replace a rotor, so it’s money well spent.
Here are some more antenna and mast recommendations from a broadcast engineer. As you’d expect, they are right on the money: http://tinyurl.com/5vgjve
OK, now I need to spend some quality time with one of my five ham antennas. I have a very understanding wife.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
When I was a young reporter, the rollout of a new version of Windows created the sort of a frenzy you’d expect if the world’s best circus came to town.
Stores opened at midnight on the day the new Windows was introduced, and I often was assigned to stand outside with the excited crowds. You haven’t really lived until you’ve stood in the cold to watch hundreds of nerds stampede into a consumer electronics store.
There’s still some commotion with a new Windows release but it lacks the intensity. Some of my readers even wonder if the most recent version, Vista, is more of a white elephant than a real performer. Almost daily, I hear from readers who want to know how to move back to XP. I’ll include a link here to a page that does a good job of explaining the process: http://tinyurl.com/269mm4 .
Microsoft has tacitly acknowledged that some users want XP back after trying Vista. It’s allowing the continued sale of XP and — more important — extended XP support to 2014. Without support, XP would essentially be useless. Plenty of readers will be pleased that it’s relatively easy to move back to XP, and that they’ll be able to get help from Microsoft for years to come if they stick with XP.
I can also understand why Apple is using Vista discontent promote itself as an alternative. To be blunt, I think moving to a Mac is a viable choice.
All that said, I’ve been reasonably pleased with Vista myself. I run it on a machine with two gigabytes of memory and a processor chip running at more than 3 gigahertz. Unlike many users running it with older software, printers, scanners and other add-on devices, I’ve had no problems. I like it.
Vista has more going for it than my testimonial. One plus is that Service Pack 1, which most Vista users should have by now, fixed some glaring trouble spots. Vista seems to run a bit faster and improvements were made to a a really annoying feature called UAC (user account control) that nagged you like a mother-in-law.
Here’s how I see things: PC users can either switch to Mac, tweak Vista for maximum performance or stick with the increasingly outdated XP. I think the first two options make more sense, since XP will inevitably be obsolete. (Of course, if you have XP on an older computer and expect to buy a new one in a year or two, there’s certainly no harm in sticking with it until you get the new on.)
For those who have Vista and are relatively happy, here are three things that’ll help get the most out of it:
*Plenty of RAM memory. I have 2 gigs and even more is useful. My uncle, an engineer who designed computer operating systems, has 5 gigs and swears he sees a difference.
*A good video card. Graphics is a huge part of Vista. My video card has 512 megabytes of dedicated video memory, and I saw improvements when I moved from a 126-meg card.
*An up-to-date processor chip. Any of the multi-core processors are good. Older single-core processors in the high 2 gigahertz range or better are adequate.
For more tweaks, check out this excellent article from Information Week: http://tinyurl.com/4am7z7
Stores opened at midnight on the day the new Windows was introduced, and I often was assigned to stand outside with the excited crowds. You haven’t really lived until you’ve stood in the cold to watch hundreds of nerds stampede into a consumer electronics store.
There’s still some commotion with a new Windows release but it lacks the intensity. Some of my readers even wonder if the most recent version, Vista, is more of a white elephant than a real performer. Almost daily, I hear from readers who want to know how to move back to XP. I’ll include a link here to a page that does a good job of explaining the process: http://tinyurl.com/269mm4 .
Microsoft has tacitly acknowledged that some users want XP back after trying Vista. It’s allowing the continued sale of XP and — more important — extended XP support to 2014. Without support, XP would essentially be useless. Plenty of readers will be pleased that it’s relatively easy to move back to XP, and that they’ll be able to get help from Microsoft for years to come if they stick with XP.
I can also understand why Apple is using Vista discontent promote itself as an alternative. To be blunt, I think moving to a Mac is a viable choice.
All that said, I’ve been reasonably pleased with Vista myself. I run it on a machine with two gigabytes of memory and a processor chip running at more than 3 gigahertz. Unlike many users running it with older software, printers, scanners and other add-on devices, I’ve had no problems. I like it.
Vista has more going for it than my testimonial. One plus is that Service Pack 1, which most Vista users should have by now, fixed some glaring trouble spots. Vista seems to run a bit faster and improvements were made to a a really annoying feature called UAC (user account control) that nagged you like a mother-in-law.
Here’s how I see things: PC users can either switch to Mac, tweak Vista for maximum performance or stick with the increasingly outdated XP. I think the first two options make more sense, since XP will inevitably be obsolete. (Of course, if you have XP on an older computer and expect to buy a new one in a year or two, there’s certainly no harm in sticking with it until you get the new on.)
For those who have Vista and are relatively happy, here are three things that’ll help get the most out of it:
*Plenty of RAM memory. I have 2 gigs and even more is useful. My uncle, an engineer who designed computer operating systems, has 5 gigs and swears he sees a difference.
*A good video card. Graphics is a huge part of Vista. My video card has 512 megabytes of dedicated video memory, and I saw improvements when I moved from a 126-meg card.
*An up-to-date processor chip. Any of the multi-core processors are good. Older single-core processors in the high 2 gigahertz range or better are adequate.
For more tweaks, check out this excellent article from Information Week: http://tinyurl.com/4am7z7
Monday, June 2, 2008
It’s time to get a little extra mileage from your computer.
Literally.
Your computer can help cut the amount you spend on gas each month. At today’s prices, saving just a few gallons can keep quite a few bucks in your pocket.
I saw the difference myself recently. I made a trip to Arkansas over the Memorial Day weekend and kept track of what I spent on gas. I covered about 575 miles each way and paid about $180 for gas.
The gas expense would have been even more had I followed my usual path. But before the trip, I used MapQuest (www.mapquest.com) to calculate various routes and found one about 70 miles shorter. That saved me more than two hours of driving time roundtrip and perhaps $24 in gas.
Using a route planner is the first and most obvious way of cutting costs. But there are plenty of others.
For instance, it’s a no-brainer to buy gas from stations that charge less. Sites such as http://www.ajccars.com/articles/gas-prices.html and, nationally, http://www.gasbuddy.com provide a fairly reliable index of what various station charge. I don’t drive miles out of my way to pay a few cents less. But it makes sense to find stations nearby — and along the route of longer travels — that are more reasonably priced.
I knew the route for my trip to Arkansas in advance so I was able to predict where I would stop. More than once the Web led me to cheaper stations just a couple of miles from interstate exits — where gas has always been notorious high.
Another bit of technology can come in handy for finding the most economical route: A GPS. Keep in mind, when you plan a route using a Web site or a GPS, the shortest route is not always the best. Cars get their best gas mileage without the stop-and-go pattern of two lane highways.
Like most people, the bulk of my driving is between home and work. Because of my jobs and hours I’ve never been a good car pool candidate. Besides, my drive is only about 8 miles. But I know co-workers who commute from distant counties and in one case from another state.
If I was in that long range crowd, carpooling would be essential. Here in Atlanta, I could use this Web site — http://www.erideshare.com/carpool.php?city=Atlanta — to find a partner with the same route and similar hours. In other parts of the state and country, I could use this site — http://www.commuterchoice.com — to do the same thing.
You’ll find carpool sites by using this Google search: +carpool +(the name of your city).
Even if you carpool to work there are plenty of trips you’ll make solo. There are some common sense ways to get more miles to the gallon. Here are some Web sites that offer ways to increase your mileage: http://www.wikihow.com/Save-Money-on-Gas and http://www.howtoadvice.com/savinggas.
Of course, the best way is to drive less. Your computer can help you cut down on the miles, especially for things like entertainment, shopping and errands. A few examples:
Shopping: Many local merchants have Web sites. When I buy locally, I use sites to compare prices as well as check availability. That avoids trips to a store only to find the price is too high or the item is out of stock.
Entertainment: We haven’t given up on going to the movies, but home-delivered DVDs from services such as Netflix (www.netflix.com) make sense.
Errands: A few years ago I would have never considered planning routes for several stops in the city. Now, I spend a few moments with an online map or with MapQuest to plot the most efficient course.
The biggest savings from your computer? Using it to telecommute — assuming your job and your company allow it. You can learn more about telecommuting — and pick up some arguments for the boss — at: http://www.telcoa.org/.
Finally, be aware that your computer can also make high gas prices worse. I’ve found many slick sites that promised the moon if only I’ll buy a product that injects a bit of water into the combustion process, or that uses magnets to magically save on gas consumption. So take a few moments at this site — http://tinyurl.com/5vltom — to learn how to avoid online scams like this.
That’s it for today. Now I need to join the jam on I-85 and head to work.
Literally.
Your computer can help cut the amount you spend on gas each month. At today’s prices, saving just a few gallons can keep quite a few bucks in your pocket.
I saw the difference myself recently. I made a trip to Arkansas over the Memorial Day weekend and kept track of what I spent on gas. I covered about 575 miles each way and paid about $180 for gas.
The gas expense would have been even more had I followed my usual path. But before the trip, I used MapQuest (www.mapquest.com) to calculate various routes and found one about 70 miles shorter. That saved me more than two hours of driving time roundtrip and perhaps $24 in gas.
Using a route planner is the first and most obvious way of cutting costs. But there are plenty of others.
For instance, it’s a no-brainer to buy gas from stations that charge less. Sites such as http://www.ajccars.com/articles/gas-prices.html and, nationally, http://www.gasbuddy.com provide a fairly reliable index of what various station charge. I don’t drive miles out of my way to pay a few cents less. But it makes sense to find stations nearby — and along the route of longer travels — that are more reasonably priced.
I knew the route for my trip to Arkansas in advance so I was able to predict where I would stop. More than once the Web led me to cheaper stations just a couple of miles from interstate exits — where gas has always been notorious high.
Another bit of technology can come in handy for finding the most economical route: A GPS. Keep in mind, when you plan a route using a Web site or a GPS, the shortest route is not always the best. Cars get their best gas mileage without the stop-and-go pattern of two lane highways.
Like most people, the bulk of my driving is between home and work. Because of my jobs and hours I’ve never been a good car pool candidate. Besides, my drive is only about 8 miles. But I know co-workers who commute from distant counties and in one case from another state.
If I was in that long range crowd, carpooling would be essential. Here in Atlanta, I could use this Web site — http://www.erideshare.com/carpool.php?city=Atlanta — to find a partner with the same route and similar hours. In other parts of the state and country, I could use this site — http://www.commuterchoice.com — to do the same thing.
You’ll find carpool sites by using this Google search: +carpool +(the name of your city).
Even if you carpool to work there are plenty of trips you’ll make solo. There are some common sense ways to get more miles to the gallon. Here are some Web sites that offer ways to increase your mileage: http://www.wikihow.com/Save-Money-on-Gas and http://www.howtoadvice.com/savinggas.
Of course, the best way is to drive less. Your computer can help you cut down on the miles, especially for things like entertainment, shopping and errands. A few examples:
Shopping: Many local merchants have Web sites. When I buy locally, I use sites to compare prices as well as check availability. That avoids trips to a store only to find the price is too high or the item is out of stock.
Entertainment: We haven’t given up on going to the movies, but home-delivered DVDs from services such as Netflix (www.netflix.com) make sense.
Errands: A few years ago I would have never considered planning routes for several stops in the city. Now, I spend a few moments with an online map or with MapQuest to plot the most efficient course.
The biggest savings from your computer? Using it to telecommute — assuming your job and your company allow it. You can learn more about telecommuting — and pick up some arguments for the boss — at: http://www.telcoa.org/.
Finally, be aware that your computer can also make high gas prices worse. I’ve found many slick sites that promised the moon if only I’ll buy a product that injects a bit of water into the combustion process, or that uses magnets to magically save on gas consumption. So take a few moments at this site — http://tinyurl.com/5vltom — to learn how to avoid online scams like this.
That’s it for today. Now I need to join the jam on I-85 and head to work.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
I often tell my bosses that I learn more from readers than they learn from me, although I secretly hope the bosses think I’m just being modest.
But it’s the truth, and today we’ll talk about some topics that have been on your minds. Let me know about others we don’t get to. You’ll find my e-mail at the bottom of this column.
HDTV
The initial mystery is wearing off and prices are dropping. The trend with my readers has been toward LCD sets, although plasma still is a popular choice.
The surprise for me is that many readers want to use an HDTV with just an antenna. There’s nothing wrong with that if you can survive without 100-plus channels of reruns and documentaries about bear cubs and spiders.
One plus is that over-the-air broadcasts offer the best HDTV signal -- better than you get with cable or satellite.
But some of you are bewildered by the latest marketing gimmick: special HDTV antennas.
That’s what it is, a gimmick. The best antenna for digital is the same as the best antenna for anything else: big and tall.
If you’re close to antenna sites you might eke by with rabbit ears. But if you’re going to avoid cable and satellite, I suggest an old-fashioned TV antenna (the kind that populated most roofs in the Leave it to Beaver days). If that seems unsightly, investigate an attic antenna. You get most of the advantages of an outside antenna without all that aluminum hanging over your house.
VCRs
Speaking of TV, there’s another topic that came as a shock to me: VCRs. Mine are gathering dust in the basement. But many people still use them. And they worry whether they’ll work with digital TV signals next year.
The answer is no, unless you have the capability to convert the digital signal to analog. Converter boxes will do that. Besides, at least for a few years after the switch, cable companies are required offer service to those with old analog technology.
Still, VCR owners should really consider a digital video recorder. It’s truly a better solution, and one is often available as part of your cable service.
Cellphones
The Apple iPhone has done the impossible. Both my technically inclined readers and those who feel uneasy about high tech simply love the iPhone. You’re using it for wireless e-mail and for checking the Web. Each week I get mail from readers who now feel comfortable travelling without a laptop and a digital camera. The iPhone has become the Swiss Army Knife of technology.
Look for news from Apple in early June. Faster connections, a true built-in GPS system and more connectivity with business e-mail systems are likely to be coming. The iPhone is a rare example of a device that crosses lines of age and expertise -- a true winner.
Video
While video is on my mind, let me tell you about a tiny video camera from Flip Video (http://www.theflip.com/products.shtml). This may be the sleeper product of the decade. It didn’t catch my eye because, frankly, I’ve never figured out why I would want to make videos of anything.
But I’m finding out that — as often happens — I’m in the minority on this one. So I’ve purchased my first video camera since the days of tape. It’s a graduation present for the daughter of our neighbors.The camera is tiny, takes great video and comes with a built-in USB connector that lets you seamlessly dump the video into your computer.
Here’s what is capturing the hearts of readers. The camera is extremely easy to use and you’ll pay as little as $100 for a camera that holds 30 minutes of video, or $150 for one that holds 60 minutes. Make sure you check mass marketers like WalMart and Target.
Be aware that Sony sells a video camera called a Flip Video Camera. Use the Web site above to see the one I mean.
Movies
Another productcapturing hearts and minds: the $100 Roku Player that lets Netflix customers almost instantly download movies and watch them on their TVs -- no computer involved. You do, of course, need a high speed Internet connection.
These kind of players have been around for a while but until know haven’t gotten much traction. The killer features here are price and ease-of-use. Check out the Roku here: http://tinyurl.com/5n3hkk
OK, that’s a sampling of topics I’m hearing about from you, but I’m sure I missed some. What are some of the products that you’re trying that have made a difference for you? Let me know at bhusted@ajc.com.
But it’s the truth, and today we’ll talk about some topics that have been on your minds. Let me know about others we don’t get to. You’ll find my e-mail at the bottom of this column.
HDTV
The initial mystery is wearing off and prices are dropping. The trend with my readers has been toward LCD sets, although plasma still is a popular choice.
The surprise for me is that many readers want to use an HDTV with just an antenna. There’s nothing wrong with that if you can survive without 100-plus channels of reruns and documentaries about bear cubs and spiders.
One plus is that over-the-air broadcasts offer the best HDTV signal -- better than you get with cable or satellite.
But some of you are bewildered by the latest marketing gimmick: special HDTV antennas.
That’s what it is, a gimmick. The best antenna for digital is the same as the best antenna for anything else: big and tall.
If you’re close to antenna sites you might eke by with rabbit ears. But if you’re going to avoid cable and satellite, I suggest an old-fashioned TV antenna (the kind that populated most roofs in the Leave it to Beaver days). If that seems unsightly, investigate an attic antenna. You get most of the advantages of an outside antenna without all that aluminum hanging over your house.
VCRs
Speaking of TV, there’s another topic that came as a shock to me: VCRs. Mine are gathering dust in the basement. But many people still use them. And they worry whether they’ll work with digital TV signals next year.
The answer is no, unless you have the capability to convert the digital signal to analog. Converter boxes will do that. Besides, at least for a few years after the switch, cable companies are required offer service to those with old analog technology.
Still, VCR owners should really consider a digital video recorder. It’s truly a better solution, and one is often available as part of your cable service.
Cellphones
The Apple iPhone has done the impossible. Both my technically inclined readers and those who feel uneasy about high tech simply love the iPhone. You’re using it for wireless e-mail and for checking the Web. Each week I get mail from readers who now feel comfortable travelling without a laptop and a digital camera. The iPhone has become the Swiss Army Knife of technology.
Look for news from Apple in early June. Faster connections, a true built-in GPS system and more connectivity with business e-mail systems are likely to be coming. The iPhone is a rare example of a device that crosses lines of age and expertise -- a true winner.
Video
While video is on my mind, let me tell you about a tiny video camera from Flip Video (http://www.theflip.com/products.shtml). This may be the sleeper product of the decade. It didn’t catch my eye because, frankly, I’ve never figured out why I would want to make videos of anything.
But I’m finding out that — as often happens — I’m in the minority on this one. So I’ve purchased my first video camera since the days of tape. It’s a graduation present for the daughter of our neighbors.The camera is tiny, takes great video and comes with a built-in USB connector that lets you seamlessly dump the video into your computer.
Here’s what is capturing the hearts of readers. The camera is extremely easy to use and you’ll pay as little as $100 for a camera that holds 30 minutes of video, or $150 for one that holds 60 minutes. Make sure you check mass marketers like WalMart and Target.
Be aware that Sony sells a video camera called a Flip Video Camera. Use the Web site above to see the one I mean.
Movies
Another productcapturing hearts and minds: the $100 Roku Player that lets Netflix customers almost instantly download movies and watch them on their TVs -- no computer involved. You do, of course, need a high speed Internet connection.
These kind of players have been around for a while but until know haven’t gotten much traction. The killer features here are price and ease-of-use. Check out the Roku here: http://tinyurl.com/5n3hkk
OK, that’s a sampling of topics I’m hearing about from you, but I’m sure I missed some. What are some of the products that you’re trying that have made a difference for you? Let me know at bhusted@ajc.com.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
The oldest rule of medicine is “first do no harm.” It’s much the same with computers. Today I’ll tiptoe close to that line.
Many times a computer is so fouled up, a person has to do one of three things: (1) Take it to the shop, (2) Dedicate weeks to trying one thing and then another or (3) take some chances with potent cures.
I think of these potent cures as desperate measures. I present them with no warranty, no promises. In fact, I suggest you only use them when no other option presents itself.
We’ll start with the least desperate of the bunch -- reformating the hard disk and reinstalling Windows. Some experts recommend this process fairly routinely, even for computers that are working. The theory is that you should start fresh once a year or so, removing any conflicts as well as hidden viruses or spyware. I don’t go that far. I only use this tactic when I can’t quite figure out what’s wrong with a computer but am fairly sure the problem is in the software, not the hardware.
If you do it, remember to back up all your data first. Also, make sure you have original disks for the programs you use.
The sequence at that point is: install the operating system; then the programs; then the backed up data.
My next tip is more dangerous. There are times when it will work, you’ll have to decide if you want to take the chance.
Remember floppy disks? Many people still send e-mail to me explaining that some important bit of information is stored on one. But the disk isn’t readable.
One desperate measure is to take the floppy disk apart. Carefully remove the inner circle of plastic coated with magnetic material. Then open a second identical brand new floppy and insert the inner material that you just removed. Put the disk back together. If it works — and it often will — immediately copy the material you need to the hard disk. Keep in mind that if you fail you’re ruined any chance of recovering the data.
Now lets turn to hard disks. When one goes bad, it can take much of your precious data with it — especially if you have not backed it up.
You can easily locate a disk recovery company by typing “disk recovery” into Google. I can’t recommend a specific service since I’ve never used one. But there’s a desperate measure that can help.
If the disk damage is not mechanical — and is software instead — there are programs that sometimes can recover your data. This is relatively safe and does not destroy the data if you fail. I’ll mention a couple of places to find these programs: http://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm and http://www.recoverdatasoftware.com/. I’m not recommending these programs, just offering examples. You can do a Web search using the terms: data recovery software.
In the worst case, the problem is mechanical. Software usually won’t help here. You’ll often recognize a mechanical problem by clicking or chattering sounds.
This is the point where only a commercial data recovery firm can help. There are some tricks floating around the Web that offer do-it-yourself remedies. I do not recommend them since, if they fail (and they usually do) you lose everything. I’ll tell you about a couple in case you decide to throw care to the wind with an otherwise useless hard disk.
The first one involves freezing the disk. Remove it, put it in a freezer bag and seal. Put that bag in a second bag, squeeze to remove the air, then put the whole shebang in the freezer for several hours.
When you take it out, let the the hard disk return to room temperature. Then reinstall it. If it works, immediately copy the information. Here’s why it might work: contraction from the cold, followed by expansion during the warm-up, can free balky parts.
Another trick that has worked for me is to remove the bad hard disk and tap it two or three times on a hard surface. I do not mean banging it like you’re driving a nail. Tap it.
I was serious in suggesting that you not try the last two tips unless the data on your disk is totally unimportant and you just feel like trying a parlor trick. Why mention them at all? I wanted you to know about them in case you stumble across a glowing review on the Web suggesting them.
Enough desperation for one day. I truly hope you never need to try any of these tips.
Many times a computer is so fouled up, a person has to do one of three things: (1) Take it to the shop, (2) Dedicate weeks to trying one thing and then another or (3) take some chances with potent cures.
I think of these potent cures as desperate measures. I present them with no warranty, no promises. In fact, I suggest you only use them when no other option presents itself.
We’ll start with the least desperate of the bunch -- reformating the hard disk and reinstalling Windows. Some experts recommend this process fairly routinely, even for computers that are working. The theory is that you should start fresh once a year or so, removing any conflicts as well as hidden viruses or spyware. I don’t go that far. I only use this tactic when I can’t quite figure out what’s wrong with a computer but am fairly sure the problem is in the software, not the hardware.
If you do it, remember to back up all your data first. Also, make sure you have original disks for the programs you use.
The sequence at that point is: install the operating system; then the programs; then the backed up data.
My next tip is more dangerous. There are times when it will work, you’ll have to decide if you want to take the chance.
Remember floppy disks? Many people still send e-mail to me explaining that some important bit of information is stored on one. But the disk isn’t readable.
One desperate measure is to take the floppy disk apart. Carefully remove the inner circle of plastic coated with magnetic material. Then open a second identical brand new floppy and insert the inner material that you just removed. Put the disk back together. If it works — and it often will — immediately copy the material you need to the hard disk. Keep in mind that if you fail you’re ruined any chance of recovering the data.
Now lets turn to hard disks. When one goes bad, it can take much of your precious data with it — especially if you have not backed it up.
You can easily locate a disk recovery company by typing “disk recovery” into Google. I can’t recommend a specific service since I’ve never used one. But there’s a desperate measure that can help.
If the disk damage is not mechanical — and is software instead — there are programs that sometimes can recover your data. This is relatively safe and does not destroy the data if you fail. I’ll mention a couple of places to find these programs: http://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm and http://www.recoverdatasoftware.com/. I’m not recommending these programs, just offering examples. You can do a Web search using the terms: data recovery software.
In the worst case, the problem is mechanical. Software usually won’t help here. You’ll often recognize a mechanical problem by clicking or chattering sounds.
This is the point where only a commercial data recovery firm can help. There are some tricks floating around the Web that offer do-it-yourself remedies. I do not recommend them since, if they fail (and they usually do) you lose everything. I’ll tell you about a couple in case you decide to throw care to the wind with an otherwise useless hard disk.
The first one involves freezing the disk. Remove it, put it in a freezer bag and seal. Put that bag in a second bag, squeeze to remove the air, then put the whole shebang in the freezer for several hours.
When you take it out, let the the hard disk return to room temperature. Then reinstall it. If it works, immediately copy the information. Here’s why it might work: contraction from the cold, followed by expansion during the warm-up, can free balky parts.
Another trick that has worked for me is to remove the bad hard disk and tap it two or three times on a hard surface. I do not mean banging it like you’re driving a nail. Tap it.
I was serious in suggesting that you not try the last two tips unless the data on your disk is totally unimportant and you just feel like trying a parlor trick. Why mention them at all? I wanted you to know about them in case you stumble across a glowing review on the Web suggesting them.
Enough desperation for one day. I truly hope you never need to try any of these tips.
I could tell the time of year even if I lived in a windowless cell. E-mail from my readers is the world’s best calendar.
This is when many of you begin to think of buying a laptop for a son or daughter heading to college. I’m several years removed from that necessity, but readers keep me up-to-date. In more than one case, I’ve changed my recommendations based on what you’ve told me.
As is usually true with smart technology purchases, the most important work is done long before the credit card slip is signed.
The starting point is the college Web site. You leave yourself open to costly mistakes if this stop is skipped. Many colleges have specific requirements for student computers. Ignoring these requirements could mean you’d end up buying two computers — the one you select and the type specified by the college.
Also, some manufacturers offer significant discounts for students at certain colleges (but comparison shop to make sure it is indeed a bargain).
In Atlanta, Georgia Tech has definite ideas about computers. Here’s a Web page that lists the requirements: http://tinyurl.com/56lra3.
You’ll see on the same Web page that Tech has purchasing agreements with Apple, Dell and Lenovo. Another link shows you programs that need to be installed on the computer.
Since Georgia Tech is known for engineering and technology, it’s not surprising its requirements are fairly specific. Other colleges may show more general requirements, or none at all. In that case, a call to the school may be prudent.
If you still have no guidance? Well, the specifications on the Georgia Tech site are an excellent start. Even if you end up paying a bit more to get the power called for, you probably will save money over time. That’s because your goal should be to buy a laptop computer that will survive four years of college without replacement.
To boost the odds of computer survival, here are four things to keep in mind.
One: All computers are compromises. For instance, extremely light computers often cost more and may not be rugged enough. Powerful laptop computers can be too bulky to comfortably carry around. The compromise I favor for college use is durability.
One example (though not a recommendation) is the Panasonic Toughbook, made for the school of hard knocks. You can read about it here: http://tinyurl.com/689xnq
Two: Consider insurance and an extended warranty. That goes against my usual recommendation. But parents have told me of broken screens, dropped computers and theft. Make your own decision, but research this option. Some credit cards offer warranty extensions if used for a purchase, so check on that as well.
Three: A good carrying case can add to survivability. I favor an aluminum hard-shell case. If your student considers that impractical, make sure any soft-side case you buy has plenty of padding.
Four: Keep in mind that laptop computers make a tempting target for thieves. There are dozens of devices ranging from cable lock systems that secure a computer in a dorm room, to tracking devices that make it easier to find a stolen computer. For ideas do a Google on “laptop computer anti-theft” or similar words.
Finally, make the student part of the search process. Your young scholar needs to buy into the notion of protecting the laptop. And it’s a good idea to cater to their biases when you make the purchase.
I’m sitting here at the keyboard smiling. I’ve been through this purchasing process twice. It’s a wonderful feeling to know I’ve finally graduated fr
This is when many of you begin to think of buying a laptop for a son or daughter heading to college. I’m several years removed from that necessity, but readers keep me up-to-date. In more than one case, I’ve changed my recommendations based on what you’ve told me.
As is usually true with smart technology purchases, the most important work is done long before the credit card slip is signed.
The starting point is the college Web site. You leave yourself open to costly mistakes if this stop is skipped. Many colleges have specific requirements for student computers. Ignoring these requirements could mean you’d end up buying two computers — the one you select and the type specified by the college.
Also, some manufacturers offer significant discounts for students at certain colleges (but comparison shop to make sure it is indeed a bargain).
In Atlanta, Georgia Tech has definite ideas about computers. Here’s a Web page that lists the requirements: http://tinyurl.com/56lra3.
You’ll see on the same Web page that Tech has purchasing agreements with Apple, Dell and Lenovo. Another link shows you programs that need to be installed on the computer.
Since Georgia Tech is known for engineering and technology, it’s not surprising its requirements are fairly specific. Other colleges may show more general requirements, or none at all. In that case, a call to the school may be prudent.
If you still have no guidance? Well, the specifications on the Georgia Tech site are an excellent start. Even if you end up paying a bit more to get the power called for, you probably will save money over time. That’s because your goal should be to buy a laptop computer that will survive four years of college without replacement.
To boost the odds of computer survival, here are four things to keep in mind.
One: All computers are compromises. For instance, extremely light computers often cost more and may not be rugged enough. Powerful laptop computers can be too bulky to comfortably carry around. The compromise I favor for college use is durability.
One example (though not a recommendation) is the Panasonic Toughbook, made for the school of hard knocks. You can read about it here: http://tinyurl.com/689xnq
Two: Consider insurance and an extended warranty. That goes against my usual recommendation. But parents have told me of broken screens, dropped computers and theft. Make your own decision, but research this option. Some credit cards offer warranty extensions if used for a purchase, so check on that as well.
Three: A good carrying case can add to survivability. I favor an aluminum hard-shell case. If your student considers that impractical, make sure any soft-side case you buy has plenty of padding.
Four: Keep in mind that laptop computers make a tempting target for thieves. There are dozens of devices ranging from cable lock systems that secure a computer in a dorm room, to tracking devices that make it easier to find a stolen computer. For ideas do a Google on “laptop computer anti-theft” or similar words.
Finally, make the student part of the search process. Your young scholar needs to buy into the notion of protecting the laptop. And it’s a good idea to cater to their biases when you make the purchase.
I’m sitting here at the keyboard smiling. I’ve been through this purchasing process twice. It’s a wonderful feeling to know I’ve finally graduated fr
Friday, May 9, 2008
Feline nature of PCs
Computers, I’m convinced, must be related to housecats. Just when you think everything is purring along nicely, a computer can stick its claws right into your heart.
One moment it’s a computer, the next it’s a big paperweight. That shocking instant — when you hit the power switch and nothing happens — triggers a fine cloud of panic that turns even the most rational person into a wild-eyed fixing machine.
Today, while we are both calm, let’s map out a game plan for that inevitable day. Stick this column in a desk drawer so it can help you calm down and avoid making things worse.
At the risk of sounding like a Zen master, first do nothing. Almost anything you do in the first moments is likely to be wrong. Calmly jot down any symptoms that occured in the days before the computer died, as well as what you were doing at the time. You may find a clue there.
Now that you’ve had time to let the panic settle, check the most obvious causes. And yes, that starts with checking to see that the power cord connections are sound. Then check to make sure the surge protector or UPS is turned on and plugged in.
Some surge protectors and power strips can automatically switch off if electricity to your home is interrupted. Plug a small lamp or other AC device into the power outlet you’re using to make sure a circuit breaker hasn’t popped.
Next look at the front panel of your computer. Are any lights on? If not, the power supply may have gone bad. It’s an easy replacement — most large computer stores offer them — but many will be leery of that repair. Those of you who are competent to do it probably know it and those who aren’t know it too (I hope) .
But what if the front panel lights are on but the machine won’t do anything? Lets turn it off and see what it can say for itself. Hit the power switch and restart.
Do you see an on-screen message when the computer restarts? For instance, if the hard disk has failed you’ll see a message. But that’s not the only way a computer can tell you its woes.
Most use beeping sounds to alert you to problems. The meaning of these codes vary according to the kind of motherboard installed in the computer. Your manual will tell you the type of motherboard installed, or you can use another computer to check the manufacturer’s Web site. Once you know the brand of motherboard you can use this site to deciper the beeps: http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm
Of course, the computer may be mute: No on-screen messages, no beeps. If so, try disconnecting any unneeded accessories — printers, scanners, etc. — and turn the machine on again. At times, a malfunctioning device will cause the problem, and if not you can at least rule it out.
The next step is to open the case.
Some of you will be reluctant. That’s fine. There’s nothing wrong with packing up the computer and taking it to a repair shop at this point.
But if you proceed,take a look at the cables and connectors inside once you have the case open. Are they firmly seated? Now — using the manual or just your knowledge — locate the processor chip. Most often it will have a tiny fan connected for cooling. Is the fan turning? Most computers will shut down if they overheat — a good thing. It’s also a good idea to check the larger fan — usually at the rear of the computer — that cools the entire innards of the machine.
If there’s nothing obviously wrong and the fans work, then try removing and reseating accessory cards. Important: Shut down the power first.
OK. We’ve reached a fork in the road. This may be all you can do. But if you have spare accessory cards (like the video card, sound card, etc.) you can try removing the card that’s in your computer and replacing it with one that you know is in working condition.
If the problem still isn’t fixed, it’s time to call it a day — and to call for an appointment at a repair service.
Since you’re reading all this with a computer that’s working just fine, you can use these tips to prepare for the inevitable. Make sure you have the manual that came with your computer or download one and print it out. Also, it’s a good idea to accumulate spare parts. Often times the problems aren’t as dire as a computer that won’t start at all. Many times all you need is a replacement keyboard, video card, even a monitor or a mouse.
Next time your computer turns into a housecat, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding those painful claws.
One moment it’s a computer, the next it’s a big paperweight. That shocking instant — when you hit the power switch and nothing happens — triggers a fine cloud of panic that turns even the most rational person into a wild-eyed fixing machine.
Today, while we are both calm, let’s map out a game plan for that inevitable day. Stick this column in a desk drawer so it can help you calm down and avoid making things worse.
At the risk of sounding like a Zen master, first do nothing. Almost anything you do in the first moments is likely to be wrong. Calmly jot down any symptoms that occured in the days before the computer died, as well as what you were doing at the time. You may find a clue there.
Now that you’ve had time to let the panic settle, check the most obvious causes. And yes, that starts with checking to see that the power cord connections are sound. Then check to make sure the surge protector or UPS is turned on and plugged in.
Some surge protectors and power strips can automatically switch off if electricity to your home is interrupted. Plug a small lamp or other AC device into the power outlet you’re using to make sure a circuit breaker hasn’t popped.
Next look at the front panel of your computer. Are any lights on? If not, the power supply may have gone bad. It’s an easy replacement — most large computer stores offer them — but many will be leery of that repair. Those of you who are competent to do it probably know it and those who aren’t know it too (I hope) .
But what if the front panel lights are on but the machine won’t do anything? Lets turn it off and see what it can say for itself. Hit the power switch and restart.
Do you see an on-screen message when the computer restarts? For instance, if the hard disk has failed you’ll see a message. But that’s not the only way a computer can tell you its woes.
Most use beeping sounds to alert you to problems. The meaning of these codes vary according to the kind of motherboard installed in the computer. Your manual will tell you the type of motherboard installed, or you can use another computer to check the manufacturer’s Web site. Once you know the brand of motherboard you can use this site to deciper the beeps: http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm
Of course, the computer may be mute: No on-screen messages, no beeps. If so, try disconnecting any unneeded accessories — printers, scanners, etc. — and turn the machine on again. At times, a malfunctioning device will cause the problem, and if not you can at least rule it out.
The next step is to open the case.
Some of you will be reluctant. That’s fine. There’s nothing wrong with packing up the computer and taking it to a repair shop at this point.
But if you proceed,take a look at the cables and connectors inside once you have the case open. Are they firmly seated? Now — using the manual or just your knowledge — locate the processor chip. Most often it will have a tiny fan connected for cooling. Is the fan turning? Most computers will shut down if they overheat — a good thing. It’s also a good idea to check the larger fan — usually at the rear of the computer — that cools the entire innards of the machine.
If there’s nothing obviously wrong and the fans work, then try removing and reseating accessory cards. Important: Shut down the power first.
OK. We’ve reached a fork in the road. This may be all you can do. But if you have spare accessory cards (like the video card, sound card, etc.) you can try removing the card that’s in your computer and replacing it with one that you know is in working condition.
If the problem still isn’t fixed, it’s time to call it a day — and to call for an appointment at a repair service.
Since you’re reading all this with a computer that’s working just fine, you can use these tips to prepare for the inevitable. Make sure you have the manual that came with your computer or download one and print it out. Also, it’s a good idea to accumulate spare parts. Often times the problems aren’t as dire as a computer that won’t start at all. Many times all you need is a replacement keyboard, video card, even a monitor or a mouse.
Next time your computer turns into a housecat, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding those painful claws.
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