Twice a year or so my wife will breathlessly tell me: “The Internet is down.”
My first reaction is that I am sitting on one heck of a news story. Civilization as we know it would slow to a crawl if the Internet itself stopped working. But I know what she really means: Our DSL connection isn’t working.

Compared to the old dial-up days, most of us have it easy. I’m not just talking about speed. The connection is much more reliable nowadays. That’s the good news. The bad news is that the connection is much more crucial to the way we live. It connects us to work, to school, to our online banking and bill paying.

Luckily, there are some simple ways to remain well-connected. Today we’ll talk about what you can do at home to — in many cases — avoid that dreaded conversation with your Internet provider’s technical support staff. If you’ve ever suffered through that experience, you’ll know how welcome these do-it-yourself tips can be.

Let’s start with the most basic trick I know. It’s embarrassingly simple but enormously effective: Turn the modem off, let it sit for a moment, and then turn it on.

Here’s why that often works wonders when it comes to your Internet connection. Modems ccasionally lose synchronization. When that happens, the Web unravels, e-mail stops working. The on-screen messages after that failure tell you what you already know and offers brainy suggestions such making sure all the cables are plugged in (which actually is a pretty good thing to do). But I’ve never seen an on-screen message that offers the most obvious fix: Turn off the modem and any router connected to it, let it sit, then turn it back on.

Let me make up a statistic here, this on/off trick will get your connection going again about 60 percent of the time. It forces the modem in your home to renew its acquaintance with the equipment at your Internet provider.

If that doesn’t work, then do spend a moment to check cable and power connections. Not long ago I was able to show my own incompetence when we lost our home connection. I tried most of the tricks that I knew — as well as a few that I didn’t — with no success. I was on the verge of calling my provider when I noticed that the panel lights on a hub (a device simpler but similar to a router) were out. Turns out my wife had moved a paper shredder to a new location and jogged the wiring behind the desk enough to pull the power connection loose on the hub. Had I followed my own advice about checking connection, the fix would have taken 10 seconds rather than 10 minutes.
We’ve talked about connections that don’t work. But many times, the connection will work do it slowly.

Keep in mind that, just as is true on the interstates, sometimes traffic to a Web site gets so heavy that things slow to a crawl. Besides that, the Internet itself slows down at times. If you want to check the condition of the Net itself here is a site that will let you do that for any area of the world: http://www.internettrafficreport.com/

Avoid tinkering at the first sign of slowness. But if the slow connection persists across all sites for several days, then the problem may be in your house.
Possible causes include interference from other gadgets — even a malfunctioning outdoor light, dimmer switch or electrical problems can spark a slowdown. Kinks in the ethernet cable can also create a roadblock. The cable reacts poorly to a very sharp bend.

Experiment by turning off suspect devices and checking the cable for kinks.
It would be wrong to write about technology without throwing in a few mysterious initials. So here you have it: MTU: maximum transmission unit.

Read this but, please, don’t try to change any settings unless you spend much more time learning about it than reading a few sentences in a newspaper column.
To understand MTU, you need to know that data travels on the Internet in packets. If you send an e-mail to your Aunt Sally, the note is broken down into bite-size chunks, and these are sent out in a stream. You can set your computer to adjust the size of each packet. Windows Vista tries to do all adjusting that for you, earlier versions of Windows sometimes need manual tweaking (that’s true for Vista too, it’s just a different process).

A faulty MTU setting can slow down the transmission of data. I’ll offer a couple of Web pages that explain why that is and how to change things — even with Vista. But, as I said, consider this a bit of education rather than a how-to lesson.
Here’s a site that discusses MTU and Windows Vista: http://tinyurl.com/6zkr34 and here’s a Web site from the United Kingdom that does a fine job explaining how MTU works: http://www.orangeproblems.co.uk/kitz/

That’s it for today. Maybe the next you hear those famous words, “The Internet is down,” you’ll be able to do what even Al Gore sometimes can’t ... make it work again.

I remember when the first “dummies” computer books came out years ago. I was both sorry I hadn’t thought of it first as well as put off by the dummies title.

Most of us aren’t dummies — maybe I’m too southern, but calling someone a dummy doesn’t seem like a good way to nuture a relationship with readers. Besides, most people aren’t dummies when it comes to computing. Instead they may be ignorant. That’s entirely different than being stupid. Stupid people have trouble learning. Ignorant people are without knowledge when it comes to a specific topic. For instance, I’m ignorant when it comes to carpentry and brain surgery.

With all that in mind, consider today’s column the “A Basic Computer Guide for the Ignorant.” We’ll talk about the very basics of keeping your computing relatively hassle free.

No. 1: The smartest people recognize the areas where they have gaps in their knowledge. When it comes to computing that means you should avoid the very most common cause of computing disaster — fixing something that you don’t understand, or installing a program that you know nothing about you’ve found on the Internet.
Take my word for it, your biggest enemy is the person who brushes your teeth every morning. If you avoid crazy over-your-head fixing and installing, you’ll be miles ahead of the competition.

No. 2: Overcome your ignorance when it comes to routine maintenance. Spend some time reading — in this column, or on the Web, or even with one of those yellow Dummies books — about anti-virus protection and programs that stop adware and spyware. Then get a program for each: Either the commercial suite of programs from Norton that includes both anti-virus and anti-spamware, or freeware from http://free.grisoft.com for viruses or a program such as this one — http://lavasoft.com/products/ad_aware_free.php — for adware/spyware protection.

No. 3: Emulate a good newspaper reporter and be skeptical, even cynical, when it comes to believing what you read. Some e-mails will tell you that you need to log onto your bank account, others will invite you to give eBay all your personal information. These e-mails all differ a bit but they have one thing in common — they are an effort by crooks to either steal your personal information and then your money, or to plant a virus in your computer.

If you feel you just can’t ignore the e-mail (and you really should ignore it) then pick up the telephone and call the bank or other institution and ask if they sent the e-mail.

No. 4: Use a password that is hard to figure out. That means it should not form a word you can find in the dictionary and it should contain at least eight characters composed of letters and numbers. For instance, here’s a horrible password: Lucy. That’s the name of my beagle. Here’s a decent password: 73rtrnrd2. If your Internet provider or the Web site allows, using a combination of lower case and capital letters is even better, like 73rTrnRd2.

It’s perfectly OK to write down passwords if you have trouble remembering them, as long as you keep them hidden away in your desk or a drawer at home. After all, if the computer crooks can start pawing through your belongings at home, this virtual reality stuff has gone way too far.

(For those living with roommates or other disreputable folks, then you’ll either need to memorize the passwords, or hide them away securely).

No. 5: Now that you’ve protected your machine from viruses, spyware and hackers as best you can, you need to protect it from nature. That means buying a UPS — an uninterruptable power supply — and using it.
These things are big batteries that have a gizmo that converts the DC battery current into AC power that your computer can use. Besides keeping the machine going long enough to shut it down in an orderly fashion after a power outage, they filter the current that your machine uses in regular operation. That filtered current avoids feeding your machine voltage surges that can kill it.

No. 6: Make back-up copies of the data you’ve created. The easiest way is to buy an external hard disk that connects to the USB port. So there’s no assembly required and, most often, the disk will include software to do the backups. My guess is that the data on your computer is worth more than the computer itself. So making regular back-ups is a flat necessity.

Even if you are completely ignorant when it comes to computers, these tips will get you headed toward the light. Think of them as five small steps away from ignorance.

My trip to chilly Nova Scotia has me thinking about winter.

But even if you’re not heading north like me, it’s not crazy to start thinking about preparing your high-tech equipment for the cold months. Power outages are close to certain — at my house, here in warm Atlanta, I can depend on at least two each winter caused by icing on power lines.

You can take advance steps to make those dark days and powerless nights easier to handle. If you wait until the first outage, you’ll find that stores are out of lights, batteries and other needed supplies. So let’s get your shopping started.

Light: Candles are dangerous and flashlights, while important to have, aren’t the only or even the best way to go. Buy a couple of battery-powered fluorescent camping lanterns (please don’t get the dangerous type that uses fuel). A couple will pro-ject broad swatches of light to ease cooking and reading.

Batteries: Get regular batteries — not the rechargeable kind. A regular will hold its charge for at least two years when stored unused. Some people advise putting them in the refrigerator, but they’ll do fine in a box at the top of a closet. Buy plenty.
Radio: I’ve found radio news to be the best source of information during a storm. It’s great for learning about road and school closings, as well as the all-important forecast. If you really want to do things right, also get a battery-powered weather radio or an AC model that has a battery back-up.

UPS: My UPS — uninterruptable power supply — helps out in unexpected ways during an outage. I use it as a supply of AC that lets me charge my laptop computer and cellphone. It also can keep a DSL or cable modem running for two or three days if there’s no other load on it. I have four separate UPS’s and I wish I had more. Since a UPS is essentially a big battery that uses a converter to supply AC, it can come in handy for devices such as cordless telephones, whose base units need a power source.
More on telephones: Every home needs a regular wired telephone. Even when the electricty goes out, phone circuits usually remain operational. Since you can’t depend on a cordless phone, wired phones can literally be a life-saver. In most homes, there should be one in the bedroom and one in a central location of the house.

Get the answer: Many of us now use an answering service provided by the telephone company, or rely on cellphone voice mail. But an answering machine can be valuable during an outage. Here’s why:

When you leave home for work in a home without power, you’ll spend the day wondering if the power has been restored. The answering machine can tell you when the power goes on. Just plug it into the AC outlet. If you call and the answering machine picks up, you’ll know the power is on.

Safety: There are several things not to do in a power outage — and they’re a lot more important than keeping warm.

One, never use a charcoal or gas grill inside the house. The grills can create carbon monoxide fumes that can kill you.

Two, if you have a portable electric generator, consult a licensed electrician before using it. Ask the electrician to create a master switch that will let you use the generator without sending electricity out over the lines outside your house. Power company lineman have been killed thinking they were working on a dead line and grabbing a live one instead.

Follow these tips and, while you may be a bit chilly when the lights go out, at least you’ll have enough light to watch your family shiver.

Long ago most families had one car. Dad went to work, Mom stayed home and errands waited until evenings or weekends. It wasn’t very convenient.

Not so long ago, most families had one computer. A line formed behind the person using it. It wasn’t very convenient, either.

Along came a second computer, then a third. At least you don’t need a bigger garage.

But multiple computers raise questions about how best to use them — including cast-off computers that have the approximate dollar value of an old suit.

We’ll tackle this in two stages, starting with the easiest. If you have extra computers that can still do heavy lifting, they can do a lot of tasks and serve as a networked computer holding backed-up data. For those interested in that prospect, here’s a Web site that covers that method, as well as other backup techniques: http://ask-leo.com/what_backup_program_should_i_use.html

That was the easy part. Some computers are no longer fast enough to handle big tasks; that’s why they were replaced. Still, there are some interesting ways to use these lonely underpowered computers.

We’ll want our lonely heart computers to be able to talk to your network. That means you’ll need to add a wireless adapter if they don’t have wireless capability. You’ll find cards that can be added to an accessory slot along with wireless adapters that connect to a USB port. And, of course, you’ll need one of those too.

Now, let’s find a home for that computer.

Kitchen: Years ago, I started accumulating cookbooks as well as recipes that I jot down on note cards. Nowadays, when I need help making a Memphis dry rub for barbecue or a refresher course on veal marsala, I just turn to the Web. Adding a computer to the kitchen — in an area protected from spills and grease — means your cookbooks won’t be needed as often. And there also are excellent sites that help you convert measurements. One tip: Kitchen computers profit from a plastic dust cover, for obvious reasons.

The shop: If you’re building a deck, a fence or even a bookshelf, you may need design help. Many excellent programs offer that — and will even tell you, based on the project, the type and length of boards you’ll need. Again, a dust cover is a must.

The den: In my house, a television program can spark interest in an unfamiliar country, animal or event. A computer tucked away in a cabinet so it isn’t an eyesore lets you find the answers quickly without abandoning the show. A laptop is even better, as you won’t have to get out of that favorite chair.

A guest computer: Overnight guests often want to check e-mail, read their favorite news Web sites or blogs or even play games. I oblige, although there’s a privacy risk with a networked computer. Keeping it separate removes those worries.

In the bedroom: No jokes, please. A bedroom computer can be extremely handy. Many times I’ve retired for the night only to realize I needed to send an e-mail or check for one. A computer in my bedroom means I can take care of that without disarming my home security system and wandering around the house.

Some of this may be excessive now. But I promise you: One-computer households will soon seem as quaint as one-car families.

E-mail Bill at tecbud@bellsouth.net

Technology has given business a powerful tool: the ability to transfer some of the work of handling orders and complaints to Web sites.

Automated functions on the site force customers to do most of the work for themselves. In theory that’s not a bad idea. If it saves money for the business, it should bring down prices.
But it also opens the door to what my friend Clark Howard, the consumer advocate, calls “customer non-service.” It can be complicated to reach a real person, and extra fees may be involved.

When online service works, it’s fast and efficient. When it doesn’t, it feels as if you’ve poked your finger into an electric pencil sharpener.

These days most folks have a tale of online service woe; I’ll give you mine. I was trying to book a trip to Nova Scotia with a 15-day stay. I wanted to fly into Halifax, stay one night in a hotel, and then head to Cape Breton.

I used a travel site to book a flight, but it insisted on also booking my Halifax hotel room for all 15 days instead of just one night. Maybe I missed something or made a mistake, but I needed human help. The first human I got politely said she had to transfer me to someone else.
That person told me she only worked with corporate customers and that I shouldn’t have called her. I explained I had been transferred and asked if she could just quickly explain how to change the hotel reservations.

“Oh, no,” that’s not my job, she said in effect.

I hung up and resorted to a secret weapon I’ll reveal at the end of the column.

But, here’s what I could have done instead: Called again and reached a different person more willing to help. You’d be surprised how often that works. One thing that often doesn’t work is getting mad and letting it show. Polite people get better service. Seldom does an insult advance your cause. You needn’t be a marshmallow, but be businesslike.

If the person you are dealing with can’t help, ask to speak to a supervisor and restate your case.If you keep moving up the food chain, you’ll probably find a person who understands it’s better to resolve complaints.
Unfortunately there’s that qualifier: Probably. Sometimes there’s just no help. If the problem is worth the time, put down the phone and go low tech: Write an old-fashioned paper letter explaining your problem and asking for resolution.

The letter should be no longer than a page -- although it’s fine to include copies of receipts or other info to support your case. And get a good proofreader. Rambling letters filled with mispelled words won’t get as much attention.

Send your letter to the company’s marketing chief or president. The big shot may never see the letter, but some companies have people assigned to deal with complaints that reach the president’s office. Use google to find executives’ names, usually in the “about us” part of a company Web site.

Now I’ll tell you the secret weapon I used to solve my problem with the travel site. I turned the telephoning over to my wife, who is Irish with a gift for blarney. Before long she was on a first name basis with one of the service reps in India, chatting about the weather, and booking my trip just the way I wanted.

Back-to-school time always brings memories of the Dew-Orr Department Store in Arkadelphia, Ark., where I made a once-a-year excursion with my mom.

I got five pairs of blue jeans, five shirts, five sets of underwear and socks and, if we were prosperous at the time, new shoes.

Mr. Orr always gave me a brand-new pocketknife at the cash register. That’s a back-to-school accessory you won’t see as a giveaway in any stores near you.

These days back-to-school shopping is a little trickier, especially when it comes to technology. But there are ways to turn shopping for the middle school and high school years into savings that pay off for the entire term.

If you use an ink jet printer, for instance, you’ll find that a laser printer will save you money in the long run. Anyone who regularly buys ink cartridges knows buying replacement cartridges can be darn near as expensive as buying a cheap ink jet printer. There will be a lot of printing to do, and much of it will be in the form of reports that do just fine in black and white. Combined with the regular load of printing for parents, having a laser as a second, or even third, printer can pay for itself in just one school year.

Most families can do just fine with a monochrome printer — one that only prints in black and white. The ink jet can be reserved for times color is needed. Check out the reviews at www.cnet.com to find a printer that’s right for your home.

Two models to check out — both made by Samsung — are the ML-2851ND (prices vary but you should easily find it at a bit over $200) and ML-1630 in the same general price range. Both receive favorable reviews at Cnet.

Color laser printers once were reserved for high-end business use, but prices have fallen. Most families would still be better served hanging on to their ink jet for color and using a laser for black and white, but your situation may vary.

School has become a lot like the office. Many projects start there but are completed at home. Some of the homework can involve music and video. That means a flash drive (also called a jump drive) is essential. These tiny, portable solid-state drives simply plug into a USB port and can store data just like a regular hard disk. Prices have really dropped over the years. You can find a jump drive in the 2 to 4 gigabyte range for around $20. I favor the Lexar brand.

The next item on my list is a cellphone. Some schools won’t allow them at all, while others allow them to be carried but not used, so check with your child’s school. In many cases, kids as young as 9 or so already have one.

Everyone has his or her own view on this but I will say the obvious: It’s a dangerous world, and a phone gives your child a way to call for help if needed. Some cellphones include GPS tracking technology that enables a parent to locate the phone — and presumably the child — at any time.
Interested? Use Google and enter this search to read about the technology and offers from various cellphone companies: trackable GPS cellphone.

A lot of stories about back-to-school technology focus on computer games, iPods and iPhones, digital cameras and camcorders. I do not see them as back-to-school necessities.

I also haven’t talked about desktop computers and laptops. Most families either have them or can’t afford to buy more. There is a good argument for a separate school machine by the time a child is in high school. Now that many parents also spend evenings either working or playing at the computer it may be close to a necessity. Just make sure to use adequate parental controls on the student machine.

I’ll offer more tips on computer shopping in future columns. But most brand-name computers sold today are plenty adequate for school use.

My final tip on back-to-school technology shopping: Your child may know more about what’s out there and what’s needed than you do. So at least listen — unless they suggest a pocketknife.

When I started covering technology 18 years ago, there was lots of talk about potential hazards of using a cellphone.

One report would say there was a risk of brain cancer; another would follow saying there was no harm from the relatively low-powered radio signals from the phone. Then the back-and-forth would start all over again.

It continues today. Recently Ronald Herberman, director of the University of Pittsburgh Cancer Institute, said his research shows it is possible that cellphone radiation raises risks for some relatively rare cancers.

But if the arguments are similar today, cellphone use has changed dramatically. Cellphones were an expensive luxury a decade or so ago. Air time was expensive. Most folks only used them when a land line wasn’t available.

These days, everyone has a cellphone — including kids who, according to Herberman, are especially vulnerable to the hazards of radiation. Many people use them constantly, to the point of dropping land line service entirely. So, for many people, exposure to any potential health hazard has grown from a few hours a month to a few hours a day.

Herberman’s research isn’t the last word. But it’s still worth noting, given the amount of exposure most of us have. Luckily, we can lessen any hazard from radiation. Bluetooth earpieces allow hands-free operation and keep the cellphone’s antenna away from our heads. Some doctors think something as simple as switching the cellphone from one ear to another several times during a long conversation will keep radiation from being concentrated in one part of the brain.

The risks are realistic enough to make it smart to do what you can to reduce the radiation.
But the real kicker to all this is that there is a real and well-documented health risk from cellphones, one so strong that it makes any radiation risk pale in comparison.

A University of Utah psychologist, David Strayer, has found that people using cellphones behind the wheel are more dangerous than if they were driving drunk. You’d think the precaution I just suggested — using an earpiece to talk hands-free — would remove much of the driving risk. After all, I’ve watched my real estate agent wife fumble through a purse large enough to hold a small dog in search of her cellphone while driving.

But Strayer’s research found that the risk of driving and talking on the cellphone is about the same regardless of the use of a hands-free phone.

Here’s the deal, at least according to Strayer as quoted in a Los Angeles Times article: While your computer can handle several chores at one time, your brain can’t.

“There are limits to how much we can multitask, and that combination of cellphone [chatting] and driving exceeds the limits,” Strayer said.

Some states recognize the danger.

I am just back from a couple of weeks in California, and motorists there — as well as in several other states — are prohibited from talking on hand-held cellphones while driving. The loophole is that they can still use headsets and speakers or — incredibly — send text messages while driving.

But the hand-held ban is at least a start. I recently read a New York Times story about a study done by Jed Kolko, an economist with the Public Policy Institute of California. He studied traffic deaths in New Jersey, New York, Connecticut and Washington, D.C., before and after handheld cellphone bans.

He thinks California will have 300 fewer traffic deaths a year because of the ban. California averages about 4,000 traffic deaths annually, so that’s a heck of a decrease.

The cellphone isn’t going away. Nor are chatty drivers. All you can do is control your own actions, and putting the phone aside while driving is a good start. Talk is cheap these days, but it can kill.

When I take a vacation I schedule three or four extra days at home before going back to work. I’m usually so exhausted and frazzled by my vacation that I need time to recover.

The hassle of air travel is often one reason. Anyone who has been through airport security with much more than a laptop knows the pain. Gadget freaks, er, lovers, can face delays. At worst, they could soon be undressing for strangers.

Let’s approach this problem from two directions. First, for those who really need to travel with a bunch of high tech devices, we’ll talk about some things that will help. Veteran road warriors already know most of this but it may help those who only travel for vacations.

Get charged up: Every device that you carry should be capable of working when you go through security. Computers should compute, radios and MP3 players should play and digital cameras should be capable of taking and displaying photos.

Organization pays: If you have accessories such as ethernet cables, battery chargers, extra memory cards and other items with wires or batteries, put them in a single clear plastic baggy. Otherwise, the security folks may need to paw through your luggage to find all the little wires and gizmos that show up on the scanner.

Don’t over-explain: Obviously you should answer questions if you are asked. But don’t start explaining unless you are asked. It often sounds defensive or even suspicious. Believe me, the security person has seen plenty of electronic devices before the ones in your baggage. So don’t assume he’s going to be puzzled by your MP3 player.

Don’t try to hide things: This should be obvious but I’ve personally seen it in security lines. People poke gadgets in hidden pouches of luggage. That, of course, makes the security person even more interested.

The other angle -- and my favorite -- we’ll look at it is whether you can leave some of your technology at home.

By taking all your gizmos, you have more stuff to carry around. And if you carry high tech devices you feel obliged to use them. Simple solution: Take a break from e-mail, texting and instant messaging if you can.

There are still other reasons. Expensive high tech devices are magnets for thieves, for instance, and they can get left behind or lost on a trip.

Still, I realize the world has shifted and many of us -- me included -- end up carrying some gadgets along.

So here’s a compromise: Multi-function devices — say an iPhone or other small device with the same features — make enormous sense for travelers. A single device can handle the functions of e-mail, phone, GPS and even camera.

Can’t justify the expense of such a gadget just for travel? You still have some options.

If you rent a car, it’s easy and affordable to have the rental company add a GPS.

Or do what I do. Before I leave I use MapQuest (www.mapquest.com) to print out routes I know I’ll be taking — airport to hotel; hotel to some restaurants that my wife insists we visit; hotel to a few to tourist spots.

If you’re really eager to travel light, even cell phones — throwaway or rental — can be obtained in remote locations.

Checking e-mail is usually easy at a computer furnished in hotel business centers or Internet cafes. Even cruise ships offer Internet centers (although the cost is often so high I just keep walking until I am near a friendly beverage dispenser).

Some disposable digital cameras do a decent job and almost all of them do a better job than the camera built into a cellphone. Once you’ve taken your pictures, e-mail them home and toss the camera.

I don’t always follow my own advice, but this is one time I really do. In the old days I vacationed like a pack mule — I can even remember taking a ham radio transceiver along on one vacation.

These days? I go on vacation.

There are two fire extinguishers in my home, and I replace both when they become out-of-date even though I’ve never used them.

Believe me, the cost of keeping them in order is a bargain when you need a fire extinguisher.
There are virtual fire extinguishers for computing. Like the real ones, they are seldom used. But when they are needed there’s no substitute.

I’ll put on my brimmed fire chief’s hat and take a look at some high-tech fire extinguishers I want you to have around the computer room. If you’re lucky, you’ll never need them.

We’ll start with something called restore points, a built-in feature of Windows. It’s gotten me out of more jams than I can list. Basically, it returns the computer to a point in the past when everything was working fine. So it’s not only a fire extinguisher, but also a time machine. See how to use it at this Microsoft site: http://tinyurl.com/253en

Here are a few others.

Backups: If you’re not regularly backing up the data in your computer, you are walking around with a “kick me” sign on your back. Hard disks die — it’s guaranteed if you use them long enough. My recommendation: Get a brand name external hard disk and set it up to automatically backup your computer at least once a week. Vista has built-in software for this. Otherwise, you can use software that comes with the disk or a separate program.

Disk and file rescue software: Sooner or later you will delete the wrong file and empty the trash prematurely. Or an important file will be damaged. Or your hard disk will malfunction, leaving important files beyond reach. There are programs — some free — that can help. Here are some links: http://www.objectrescue.com/products/filerescuepro/ ;
http://www.nucleusdatarecovery.org/ ;
http://downloads.zdnet.com/abstract.aspx?docid=226952

Uninterruptable power supply: It’s usually called a UPS. Once limited to business users it is now fairly common in most homes. I recommend you follow suit. If the power goes out, your UPS furnishes enough steam to allow you to save the data on your computer and shut it down. It also protects your computer against bumps in the voltage or brief brownouts. I connect my router and DSL modem to my UPS. That way, a blip in power doesn’t knock me offline. At $100 or so, it’s good insurance. I like the APC brand.

UPS part two: For those of you who read the item above and thought “well, of course I have a UPS, who doesn’t” here’s something to double check. If your UPS is more than three years old the battery is probably on its last legs. Either replace the battery, or buy a new UPS.

Junkbox: Try to keep some spare ethernet cables, USB cables, a mouse, a video card you’ve discarded and other potential replacements on hand. Computers have an amazing knack for going out when no help is available and when you really must finish a project. Your junkbox is your friend.

An old computer: Yes, you heard me right. Most of us replace PCs many times. The old computer is worth almost nothing as far as a cash value. But, as a temporary replacement late on a Sunday afternoon when computing work must be done: Priceless. Besides having a workhorse ready to go, you avoid any potential dangers of having others grab your data off a discarded PC’s hard disk.

Discs and manuals: It’s only when a hard disk crashes that most of us discover a program disc is missing. So take stock of them occasionally. If your programs require activation codes make sure you have the code and manual. I keep all this in a single area of my home office bookshelf. Understand that your back-up only contains the data you created; programs themselves should be installed from original discs.

Finally, it would not be crazy to include a real fire extinguisher in your computing room. After all, not all fires occur in the virtual world.

The economy has me scrouging around more than usual. I haven’t yet checked the dumpster behind the Kroger for discarded vegetables, but I keep my eyes open for any way to save some coin.

At times I find ways to avoid spending money at all.

Today we’ll talk about some excellent computer programs that are absolutely free. In some cases you are asked to send a donation, and I encourage that if you can spare it. Without some show of support, these free products will go away.

I’ve mentioned many of these programs in the past. Today we’ll add some more, along with a brief summary and how to find them. If you need more information, Google is your friend.

Belarc Personal Advisor (http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html): My favorite free program. It’ll tell you, in great detail, almost anything you’d like to know about your computer and its software. You’ll also find activation codes for software — handy if you’ve lost any.

Grisoft Anti-Virus and AVAST (http://free.grisoft.com/ and http://www.avast.com/eng/download-avast-home.html): These two anti-virus programs are as good or better than the commercial stuff. Use the addresses I listed to get the free programs, otherwise you may find “free trial” and commercial packages.

OpenOffice.org (http://www.openoffice.org/): I was cautious about recommending this package — it serves as a clone for Microsoft Office — in the beginning. I’d heard reports it would not always open documents produced by Microsoft Office. So I’ve spent some time with it. I’ll stick with Microsoft, but I feel easy recommending this package — it does an excellent job and includes word processor, database, spreadsheet and much more.

Ubuntu (http://www.ubuntu.com/): Some of my readers are tired of Windows or just like trying something new. Ubuntu is an operating system based on Linux (as is the Macintosh OS). It shares many of the advantages and requires less horsepower from a PC. If you have an old PC that’s not up to Windows Vista or even XP, give this a try.

Google Earth (http://earth.google.com/): Zoom to any spot on earth and see aerial photographs that have stunning detail — in some cases clear enough to identify parked cars and see people walking. I use it for entertainment. But my real estate agent wife uses it to scout some types of properties.

Anchor Free (http://www.anchorfree.com/): A few years ago I visited some of the popular public hotspot locations — where you can get a wireless connection, sometimes free, sometimes for a fee. They all had one thing in common. I sat there with some very basic software and a laptop and watched passwords and user names roll across my screen. Almost all these hotspots are wide open. This program can close that gap.

MozyHome (http://mozy.com/): If you make data backups, congratulations. You’re ahead of most computer users. But the trouble with backups stored at home is that they can be destroyed by fire or other disasters. This site offers an online backup service for a fee. But you can backup 2 gigabytes of data for free.

Use Google to find more free software. Butinvestigate any program before downloading. Look for user reviews. Some of the free software out there isn’t worth the price, and some contains spyware.

My recommendations are a safe way to start exploring while pinching your pennies at the same time.

I’m not sure what’s happening here. Maybe some of my readers blew all their money on an HDTV. For whatever reason, a number are writing to ask about using an antenna with their new HDTVs.

These readers don’t plan to get cable or use satellite. They are taking their HDTV and heading back to the “Leave it to Beaver” days of using an antenna.

They came to the right place. I’ve built enough antennas for my ham radio hobby to get truckload rates on aluminum tubing.

They may even be onto something. HDTV picture quality with an antenna is better than cable or satellite. Why? Over-the-air signals get much less compression than when delivered via cable or satellite.

If you’re interested in trying antenna reception, the place to start is http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx. It’s a terrific site that will use your address to tell you how far away you are from transmitting towers, along with the compass direction to those towers. It also will tell you the type of antenna you need.

Some readers test the waters using rabbit ears. Depending on how close you are to the transmission sites you may be able to get away with that. I can get a few stations from my in-town Atlanta location that way.

But if the antenna was my only source of HDTV I’d want to do better. Let’s start with the Golden Rule of antennas: They should be as high as possible and as big as your spouse will allow. For most locations, it’s also good to have a rotor that can turn the antenna toward antenna sites.

Of course, some folks would rather not have an antenna poking above the roofline. There’s still an option that’s a big step up from rabbit ears: an attic antenna. You can Google and find plenty. This site tells you how to install one: http://www.terrestrial-digital.com/attic_installation.html

No special antenna is necessary, as long as it fits. You can usually find some labeled “indoor or outdoor antenna.”

If you don’t have an attic but don’t want a tall antenna, these indoor/outdoor models are designed to be unobtrustive. Radio Shack offers some and you’ll find plenty of others using Google.

For those who plan to use a regular outdoor antenna, there’s no substitute for one called a yagi. If you’re old enough to remember the conventional antennas that once dotted every rooftop, you’ve seen them.

You may be able to mount it on a simple mast strapped to your chimney, or a ground mounted mast attached to the side of your house. If you plan to install the mast yourself, get advice at the bottom of this page: http://tvantenna.soccerr.net/howto.htm

A small warning: If you do a substandard job, the whole thing can come tumbling down. If you have any doubt, ask for installer recommendations when you buy the antenna.

A big warning: If a mast touches an electrial wire while you’re holding it, you are dead. If it falls on a wire later, it can start a fire. Here’s my safety rule: If the mast is 30 feet high do not get it within 60 feet of an electrical wire at any time. If it’s 20 feet high, keep it at least 40 feet away.

You’ll probably need a rotor to turn your antenna. Spend a little extra and buy a rotor that contains a brake — it works like the brakes on your car. Otherwise the wind can push your antenna around and break the gears. You have to take the whole antenna system down to replace a rotor, so it’s money well spent.

Here are some more antenna and mast recommendations from a broadcast engineer. As you’d expect, they are right on the money: http://tinyurl.com/5vgjve

OK, now I need to spend some quality time with one of my five ham antennas. I have a very understanding wife.

When I was a young reporter, the rollout of a new version of Windows created the sort of a frenzy you’d expect if the world’s best circus came to town.

Stores opened at midnight on the day the new Windows was introduced, and I often was assigned to stand outside with the excited crowds. You haven’t really lived until you’ve stood in the cold to watch hundreds of nerds stampede into a consumer electronics store.

There’s still some commotion with a new Windows release but it lacks the intensity. Some of my readers even wonder if the most recent version, Vista, is more of a white elephant than a real performer. Almost daily, I hear from readers who want to know how to move back to XP. I’ll include a link here to a page that does a good job of explaining the process: http://tinyurl.com/269mm4 .

Microsoft has tacitly acknowledged that some users want XP back after trying Vista. It’s allowing the continued sale of XP and — more important — extended XP support to 2014. Without support, XP would essentially be useless. Plenty of readers will be pleased that it’s relatively easy to move back to XP, and that they’ll be able to get help from Microsoft for years to come if they stick with XP.

I can also understand why Apple is using Vista discontent promote itself as an alternative. To be blunt, I think moving to a Mac is a viable choice.

All that said, I’ve been reasonably pleased with Vista myself. I run it on a machine with two gigabytes of memory and a processor chip running at more than 3 gigahertz. Unlike many users running it with older software, printers, scanners and other add-on devices, I’ve had no problems. I like it.

Vista has more going for it than my testimonial. One plus is that Service Pack 1, which most Vista users should have by now, fixed some glaring trouble spots. Vista seems to run a bit faster and improvements were made to a a really annoying feature called UAC (user account control) that nagged you like a mother-in-law.

Here’s how I see things: PC users can either switch to Mac, tweak Vista for maximum performance or stick with the increasingly outdated XP. I think the first two options make more sense, since XP will inevitably be obsolete. (Of course, if you have XP on an older computer and expect to buy a new one in a year or two, there’s certainly no harm in sticking with it until you get the new on.)

For those who have Vista and are relatively happy, here are three things that’ll help get the most out of it:

*Plenty of RAM memory. I have 2 gigs and even more is useful. My uncle, an engineer who designed computer operating systems, has 5 gigs and swears he sees a difference.

*A good video card. Graphics is a huge part of Vista. My video card has 512 megabytes of dedicated video memory, and I saw improvements when I moved from a 126-meg card.

*An up-to-date processor chip. Any of the multi-core processors are good. Older single-core processors in the high 2 gigahertz range or better are adequate.
For more tweaks, check out this excellent article from Information Week: http://tinyurl.com/4am7z7

It’s time to get a little extra mileage from your computer.

Literally.

Your computer can help cut the amount you spend on gas each month. At today’s prices, saving just a few gallons can keep quite a few bucks in your pocket.

I saw the difference myself recently. I made a trip to Arkansas over the Memorial Day weekend and kept track of what I spent on gas. I covered about 575 miles each way and paid about $180 for gas.

The gas expense would have been even more had I followed my usual path. But before the trip, I used MapQuest (www.mapquest.com) to calculate various routes and found one about 70 miles shorter. That saved me more than two hours of driving time roundtrip and perhaps $24 in gas.

Using a route planner is the first and most obvious way of cutting costs. But there are plenty of others.

For instance, it’s a no-brainer to buy gas from stations that charge less. Sites such as http://www.ajccars.com/articles/gas-prices.html and, nationally, http://www.gasbuddy.com provide a fairly reliable index of what various station charge. I don’t drive miles out of my way to pay a few cents less. But it makes sense to find stations nearby — and along the route of longer travels — that are more reasonably priced.

I knew the route for my trip to Arkansas in advance so I was able to predict where I would stop. More than once the Web led me to cheaper stations just a couple of miles from interstate exits — where gas has always been notorious high.

Another bit of technology can come in handy for finding the most economical route: A GPS. Keep in mind, when you plan a route using a Web site or a GPS, the shortest route is not always the best. Cars get their best gas mileage without the stop-and-go pattern of two lane highways.

Like most people, the bulk of my driving is between home and work. Because of my jobs and hours I’ve never been a good car pool candidate. Besides, my drive is only about 8 miles. But I know co-workers who commute from distant counties and in one case from another state.

If I was in that long range crowd, carpooling would be essential. Here in Atlanta, I could use this Web site — http://www.erideshare.com/carpool.php?city=Atlanta — to find a partner with the same route and similar hours. In other parts of the state and country, I could use this site — http://www.commuterchoice.com — to do the same thing.

You’ll find carpool sites by using this Google search: +carpool +(the name of your city).

Even if you carpool to work there are plenty of trips you’ll make solo. There are some common sense ways to get more miles to the gallon. Here are some Web sites that offer ways to increase your mileage: http://www.wikihow.com/Save-Money-on-Gas and http://www.howtoadvice.com/savinggas.

Of course, the best way is to drive less. Your computer can help you cut down on the miles, especially for things like entertainment, shopping and errands. A few examples:

Shopping: Many local merchants have Web sites. When I buy locally, I use sites to compare prices as well as check availability. That avoids trips to a store only to find the price is too high or the item is out of stock.

Entertainment: We haven’t given up on going to the movies, but home-delivered DVDs from services such as Netflix (www.netflix.com) make sense.

Errands: A few years ago I would have never considered planning routes for several stops in the city. Now, I spend a few moments with an online map or with MapQuest to plot the most efficient course.

The biggest savings from your computer? Using it to telecommute — assuming your job and your company allow it. You can learn more about telecommuting — and pick up some arguments for the boss — at: http://www.telcoa.org/.

Finally, be aware that your computer can also make high gas prices worse. I’ve found many slick sites that promised the moon if only I’ll buy a product that injects a bit of water into the combustion process, or that uses magnets to magically save on gas consumption. So take a few moments at this site — http://tinyurl.com/5vltom — to learn how to avoid online scams like this.

That’s it for today. Now I need to join the jam on I-85 and head to work.

I often tell my bosses that I learn more from readers than they learn from me, although I secretly hope the bosses think I’m just being modest.

But it’s the truth, and today we’ll talk about some topics that have been on your minds. Let me know about others we don’t get to. You’ll find my e-mail at the bottom of this column.

HDTV

The initial mystery is wearing off and prices are dropping. The trend with my readers has been toward LCD sets, although plasma still is a popular choice.

The surprise for me is that many readers want to use an HDTV with just an antenna. There’s nothing wrong with that if you can survive without 100-plus channels of reruns and documentaries about bear cubs and spiders.

One plus is that over-the-air broadcasts offer the best HDTV signal -- better than you get with cable or satellite.

But some of you are bewildered by the latest marketing gimmick: special HDTV antennas.

That’s what it is, a gimmick. The best antenna for digital is the same as the best antenna for anything else: big and tall.

If you’re close to antenna sites you might eke by with rabbit ears. But if you’re going to avoid cable and satellite, I suggest an old-fashioned TV antenna (the kind that populated most roofs in the Leave it to Beaver days). If that seems unsightly, investigate an attic antenna. You get most of the advantages of an outside antenna without all that aluminum hanging over your house.

VCRs

Speaking of TV, there’s another topic that came as a shock to me: VCRs. Mine are gathering dust in the basement. But many people still use them. And they worry whether they’ll work with digital TV signals next year.

The answer is no, unless you have the capability to convert the digital signal to analog. Converter boxes will do that. Besides, at least for a few years after the switch, cable companies are required offer service to those with old analog technology.

Still, VCR owners should really consider a digital video recorder. It’s truly a better solution, and one is often available as part of your cable service.

Cellphones

The Apple iPhone has done the impossible. Both my technically inclined readers and those who feel uneasy about high tech simply love the iPhone. You’re using it for wireless e-mail and for checking the Web. Each week I get mail from readers who now feel comfortable travelling without a laptop and a digital camera. The iPhone has become the Swiss Army Knife of technology.

Look for news from Apple in early June. Faster connections, a true built-in GPS system and more connectivity with business e-mail systems are likely to be coming. The iPhone is a rare example of a device that crosses lines of age and expertise -- a true winner.

Video

While video is on my mind, let me tell you about a tiny video camera from Flip Video (http://www.theflip.com/products.shtml). This may be the sleeper product of the decade. It didn’t catch my eye because, frankly, I’ve never figured out why I would want to make videos of anything.

But I’m finding out that — as often happens — I’m in the minority on this one. So I’ve purchased my first video camera since the days of tape. It’s a graduation present for the daughter of our neighbors.The camera is tiny, takes great video and comes with a built-in USB connector that lets you seamlessly dump the video into your computer.

Here’s what is capturing the hearts of readers. The camera is extremely easy to use and you’ll pay as little as $100 for a camera that holds 30 minutes of video, or $150 for one that holds 60 minutes. Make sure you check mass marketers like WalMart and Target.

Be aware that Sony sells a video camera called a Flip Video Camera. Use the Web site above to see the one I mean.

Movies

Another productcapturing hearts and minds: the $100 Roku Player that lets Netflix customers almost instantly download movies and watch them on their TVs -- no computer involved. You do, of course, need a high speed Internet connection.

These kind of players have been around for a while but until know haven’t gotten much traction. The killer features here are price and ease-of-use. Check out the Roku here: http://tinyurl.com/5n3hkk

OK, that’s a sampling of topics I’m hearing about from you, but I’m sure I missed some. What are some of the products that you’re trying that have made a difference for you? Let me know at bhusted@ajc.com.

The oldest rule of medicine is “first do no harm.” It’s much the same with computers. Today I’ll tiptoe close to that line.

Many times a computer is so fouled up, a person has to do one of three things: (1) Take it to the shop, (2) Dedicate weeks to trying one thing and then another or (3) take some chances with potent cures.

I think of these potent cures as desperate measures. I present them with no warranty, no promises. In fact, I suggest you only use them when no other option presents itself.

We’ll start with the least desperate of the bunch -- reformating the hard disk and reinstalling Windows. Some experts recommend this process fairly routinely, even for computers that are working. The theory is that you should start fresh once a year or so, removing any conflicts as well as hidden viruses or spyware. I don’t go that far. I only use this tactic when I can’t quite figure out what’s wrong with a computer but am fairly sure the problem is in the software, not the hardware.

If you do it, remember to back up all your data first. Also, make sure you have original disks for the programs you use.

The sequence at that point is: install the operating system; then the programs; then the backed up data.

My next tip is more dangerous. There are times when it will work, you’ll have to decide if you want to take the chance.

Remember floppy disks? Many people still send e-mail to me explaining that some important bit of information is stored on one. But the disk isn’t readable.

One desperate measure is to take the floppy disk apart. Carefully remove the inner circle of plastic coated with magnetic material. Then open a second identical brand new floppy and insert the inner material that you just removed. Put the disk back together. If it works — and it often will — immediately copy the material you need to the hard disk. Keep in mind that if you fail you’re ruined any chance of recovering the data.

Now lets turn to hard disks. When one goes bad, it can take much of your precious data with it — especially if you have not backed it up.

You can easily locate a disk recovery company by typing “disk recovery” into Google. I can’t recommend a specific service since I’ve never used one. But there’s a desperate measure that can help.

If the disk damage is not mechanical — and is software instead — there are programs that sometimes can recover your data. This is relatively safe and does not destroy the data if you fail. I’ll mention a couple of places to find these programs: http://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm and http://www.recoverdatasoftware.com/. I’m not recommending these programs, just offering examples. You can do a Web search using the terms: data recovery software.

In the worst case, the problem is mechanical. Software usually won’t help here. You’ll often recognize a mechanical problem by clicking or chattering sounds.

This is the point where only a commercial data recovery firm can help. There are some tricks floating around the Web that offer do-it-yourself remedies. I do not recommend them since, if they fail (and they usually do) you lose everything. I’ll tell you about a couple in case you decide to throw care to the wind with an otherwise useless hard disk.

The first one involves freezing the disk. Remove it, put it in a freezer bag and seal. Put that bag in a second bag, squeeze to remove the air, then put the whole shebang in the freezer for several hours.

When you take it out, let the the hard disk return to room temperature. Then reinstall it. If it works, immediately copy the information. Here’s why it might work: contraction from the cold, followed by expansion during the warm-up, can free balky parts.

Another trick that has worked for me is to remove the bad hard disk and tap it two or three times on a hard surface. I do not mean banging it like you’re driving a nail. Tap it.

I was serious in suggesting that you not try the last two tips unless the data on your disk is totally unimportant and you just feel like trying a parlor trick. Why mention them at all? I wanted you to know about them in case you stumble across a glowing review on the Web suggesting them.

Enough desperation for one day. I truly hope you never need to try any of these tips.

I could tell the time of year even if I lived in a windowless cell. E-mail from my readers is the world’s best calendar.

This is when many of you begin to think of buying a laptop for a son or daughter heading to college. I’m several years removed from that necessity, but readers keep me up-to-date. In more than one case, I’ve changed my recommendations based on what you’ve told me.

As is usually true with smart technology purchases, the most important work is done long before the credit card slip is signed.

The starting point is the college Web site. You leave yourself open to costly mistakes if this stop is skipped. Many colleges have specific requirements for student computers. Ignoring these requirements could mean you’d end up buying two computers — the one you select and the type specified by the college.

Also, some manufacturers offer significant discounts for students at certain colleges (but comparison shop to make sure it is indeed a bargain).

In Atlanta, Georgia Tech has definite ideas about computers. Here’s a Web page that lists the requirements: http://tinyurl.com/56lra3.

You’ll see on the same Web page that Tech has purchasing agreements with Apple, Dell and Lenovo. Another link shows you programs that need to be installed on the computer.
Since Georgia Tech is known for engineering and technology, it’s not surprising its requirements are fairly specific. Other colleges may show more general requirements, or none at all. In that case, a call to the school may be prudent.

If you still have no guidance? Well, the specifications on the Georgia Tech site are an excellent start. Even if you end up paying a bit more to get the power called for, you probably will save money over time. That’s because your goal should be to buy a laptop computer that will survive four years of college without replacement.

To boost the odds of computer survival, here are four things to keep in mind.

One: All computers are compromises. For instance, extremely light computers often cost more and may not be rugged enough. Powerful laptop computers can be too bulky to comfortably carry around. The compromise I favor for college use is durability.
One example (though not a recommendation) is the Panasonic Toughbook, made for the school of hard knocks. You can read about it here: http://tinyurl.com/689xnq

Two: Consider insurance and an extended warranty. That goes against my usual recommendation. But parents have told me of broken screens, dropped computers and theft. Make your own decision, but research this option. Some credit cards offer warranty extensions if used for a purchase, so check on that as well.

Three: A good carrying case can add to survivability. I favor an aluminum hard-shell case. If your student considers that impractical, make sure any soft-side case you buy has plenty of padding.

Four: Keep in mind that laptop computers make a tempting target for thieves. There are dozens of devices ranging from cable lock systems that secure a computer in a dorm room, to tracking devices that make it easier to find a stolen computer. For ideas do a Google on “laptop computer anti-theft” or similar words.

Finally, make the student part of the search process. Your young scholar needs to buy into the notion of protecting the laptop. And it’s a good idea to cater to their biases when you make the purchase.

I’m sitting here at the keyboard smiling. I’ve been through this purchasing process twice. It’s a wonderful feeling to know I’ve finally graduated fr

Feline nature of PCs

Computers, I’m convinced, must be related to housecats. Just when you think everything is purring along nicely, a computer can stick its claws right into your heart.

One moment it’s a computer, the next it’s a big paperweight. That shocking instant — when you hit the power switch and nothing happens — triggers a fine cloud of panic that turns even the most rational person into a wild-eyed fixing machine.

Today, while we are both calm, let’s map out a game plan for that inevitable day. Stick this column in a desk drawer so it can help you calm down and avoid making things worse.

At the risk of sounding like a Zen master, first do nothing. Almost anything you do in the first moments is likely to be wrong. Calmly jot down any symptoms that occured in the days before the computer died, as well as what you were doing at the time. You may find a clue there.

Now that you’ve had time to let the panic settle, check the most obvious causes. And yes, that starts with checking to see that the power cord connections are sound. Then check to make sure the surge protector or UPS is turned on and plugged in.

Some surge protectors and power strips can automatically switch off if electricity to your home is interrupted. Plug a small lamp or other AC device into the power outlet you’re using to make sure a circuit breaker hasn’t popped.

Next look at the front panel of your computer. Are any lights on? If not, the power supply may have gone bad. It’s an easy replacement — most large computer stores offer them — but many will be leery of that repair. Those of you who are competent to do it probably know it and those who aren’t know it too (I hope) .

But what if the front panel lights are on but the machine won’t do anything? Lets turn it off and see what it can say for itself. Hit the power switch and restart.

Do you see an on-screen message when the computer restarts? For instance, if the hard disk has failed you’ll see a message. But that’s not the only way a computer can tell you its woes.

Most use beeping sounds to alert you to problems. The meaning of these codes vary according to the kind of motherboard installed in the computer. Your manual will tell you the type of motherboard installed, or you can use another computer to check the manufacturer’s Web site. Once you know the brand of motherboard you can use this site to deciper the beeps: http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm

Of course, the computer may be mute: No on-screen messages, no beeps. If so, try disconnecting any unneeded accessories — printers, scanners, etc. — and turn the machine on again. At times, a malfunctioning device will cause the problem, and if not you can at least rule it out.

The next step is to open the case.

Some of you will be reluctant. That’s fine. There’s nothing wrong with packing up the computer and taking it to a repair shop at this point.

But if you proceed,take a look at the cables and connectors inside once you have the case open. Are they firmly seated? Now — using the manual or just your knowledge — locate the processor chip. Most often it will have a tiny fan connected for cooling. Is the fan turning? Most computers will shut down if they overheat — a good thing. It’s also a good idea to check the larger fan — usually at the rear of the computer — that cools the entire innards of the machine.

If there’s nothing obviously wrong and the fans work, then try removing and reseating accessory cards. Important: Shut down the power first.

OK. We’ve reached a fork in the road. This may be all you can do. But if you have spare accessory cards (like the video card, sound card, etc.) you can try removing the card that’s in your computer and replacing it with one that you know is in working condition.

If the problem still isn’t fixed, it’s time to call it a day — and to call for an appointment at a repair service.

Since you’re reading all this with a computer that’s working just fine, you can use these tips to prepare for the inevitable. Make sure you have the manual that came with your computer or download one and print it out. Also, it’s a good idea to accumulate spare parts. Often times the problems aren’t as dire as a computer that won’t start at all. Many times all you need is a replacement keyboard, video card, even a monitor or a mouse.

Next time your computer turns into a housecat, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding those painful claws.

Your summer vacation

I’ve arranged a special vacation offer just for my readers. You’ll stay at no nightly cost, have food prepared to your taste and never bother with packing and unpacking.

It’s exactly what I plan for myself: A stay-at-home vacation with activities for the whole family. You’ll have plenty of time to read and take naps — important parts of any vacation.
And it will leave you with a little extra money in your pocket. I have plans for some of those dollars, but even so you’ll end up spending a fraction of what a conventional vacation would cost.

Think of me as counselor at your high-tech summer camp. There are a wide range of fun and educational activities offered. You can tailor what you do to all age groups.

I’ll direct you to some high-tech family projects you can order using the Web. Most of these sites offer dozens of projects. I’ll suggest a few types, and then you can find kits to suit your family.

Build-a-computer

One of the best ways to learn about computing is to build your own computer. Everyone in the family can help.

The first option is to build a powerful computer that can join the family arsenal. Simply pick up all the components from power supply to case at any good computer store. Most stores will help you find what you need and have books that explain the process.

You can also get Web help here: http://www.mysuperpc.com/

The project requires no soldering and is surprisingly easy. Depending on the components you select, you’ll spend about $800. The site above offers links to sites of various parts vendors. You can also shop locally or at other Web sites.

For a more sophisticated project where you literally work at the circuitboard level, try this Web site: http://tinyurl.com/5vwrnq

This isn’t for the faint-hearted. But for those of you who want to mount tiny components, it’s a great experience. You’ll get a book and all the components you need for $125.

You will not end up with a PC. Instead, this computer is mostly for learning. But it can be used as the brains for another project, including a robot. This is definitely a project for the hobbyist, but enough help is offered to make it suitable for motivated beginners.

Some kid stuff

Many families — especially those with young children who want to get involved — would be better off starting with much easier projects. Try this Web page for a wide range of scientific kits geared toward kids: http://www.hobbyengineering.com.

A child of 11 or 12 can easily navigate kits such as these.

One of my first boyhood projects was building a radio. I did it from scratch, but there are easier ways today. A Tennessee company called Ten-Tec (it also makes outstanding ham radio products) offers a $39 kit that lets you make a shortwave radio.

You get everything you need, along with instructions. This project is suitable for kids, but soldering is required so supervision is a good idea. Check it out at the top of this page: http://radio.tentec.com/kits

That radio won’t be fancy. But the same Web page offers increasingly difficult radio kits. You can wind up with a very nice homebuilt radio for about $200. Ten-Tec is known for its willingness to help when you’re stumped. That’s a nice plus.

Heat things up

If you are interested in some of the kits that involve soldering, why not get a kit that specifically teaches soldering? It just costs $12 and — for your efforts — you end up with a robot with blinking eyes. You can see it here: http://www.kitsusa.net/phpstore/index.php.

For those who want to build a real robot, here’s a good site: http://www.lynxmotion.com

I’ve geared a lot of this to kids, but tech-minded adults shouldn’t ignore the fun these electronics projects offer. I still get great joy in building something. There’s a real thrill in hitting the power switch on something you made yourself.

So now you have a starting point for what could be a really terrific family vacation. Even if you took on two of the more expensive projects, the cost will be a fraction of what you’d spend on a conventional vacation. And you you have the potential for educational fun that can bind a family tighter than the most elegant solder joint.

Walk on the weird side

Today let’s take a walk -- a walk on the wild, scary side of computing.

We’ll leave hackers, ordinary computer viruses and scammers for another time. Let’s examine some real, but mostly hidden, dangers of computer use that can do real harm to your equipment, or even your body.

These threats don’t just come from the internet, but also from other gadgets that connect to your computer or allow you to use it. An example is the digital picture frame, one in a series of digital appliances that can come with an added and unwelcome feature at times — viruses, worms and password stealing programs implanted at the manufacturing source.

So far, the list of infected gadgets includes iPods, other music players and GPS devices. But it could widen to any gadget that contains computerized circuitry.

Most of these devices seem to be infected by accident at the factory — for instance, a worker might use a music player for his own use, connecting it to an infected computer. But there’s also evidence that some of these programs are added on purpose.

Not to pick on digital frames, but one giant U.S. retailer yanked them off its shelves when it discovered they contained a virus programmed to steal passwords and disable anti-virus software.

How does this sinister threat work? All these gadgets end up connected to your computer — either to transfer photos, music or navigation maps. When they are connected, the virus can migrate from the device to your machine. The safeguard? Keep your anti-virus software updated so that if a virus tries to sneak in the backdoor, the program catches it.

Another potential hidden danger is toner, the stuff used in a laser printer. Some researchers think the dust-like particles can be as dangerous as cigarette smoke. A study published in Environmental Science and Technology magazine suggested that changing toner cartridges on a laser printer sometimes subjected people to the high-tech version of black lung disease. The only difference is that, instead of coal dust harming the lungs of miners, the tiny particles of toner dust attacked the lungs of office workers.

There isn’t universal agreement on the harm. But it’s another example of an unexpected risk that may be lurking. If you’d like to read more, here’s a link to a 2007 article in Time magazine: http://tinyurl.com/3jb7qu

There are other risks to your body when you use a computer. One that is well-documented is carpal tunnel syndrome. Spending long hours at the keyboard can create serious and permanent problems when the median nerve, which runs from the forearm into the hand and can become squeezed at the wrist.

Other, lesser aliments, can also be caused by long hours at the keyboard too. So take a break.
Another, equally frightening medical problem, isn’t as well known. New Zealand researchers say extended sessions at a computer can cause fatal blood clots. The risk seems similar to what can happen if you spend a lot of time in a confined position — on long drives, or long airline flights. That adds to the risk of deep vein thrombosis. The veins become compressed and can form blood clots.

Between carpal tunnel system and fatal blood clots — well, that’s reason enough for anyone to take frequent breaks from the computer. Just get up and walk around.

In fact, I think I’ll do that right now. I never knew writing a column could be such a risky oc

A basement rescue

Last weekend I rescued an old friend. She was once popular and even trendy, but for the past couple of years she had been living alone in a basement. She looked good despite a growing collection of dust.

The rescue made both of us feel good, especially since I was able to put her to work.

You may have an old computer or two, stored away in a closet, basement or attic. I understand since I often do the same thing myself but — in truth — it’s sort of dumb. Most often it’s just a computer purgatory, a stop on the way to the final destination of the junk heap.
There are better ways and we’ll talk about that today.

For one thing, you can always give the computer away. Here in Atlanta, there’s an outfit called Computers for Youth. If you go to this Web page —- http://www.cfy.org/donate-computers.php — you’ll see the kind of computers it accepts. You can also read about the goals of the group. A quick search with Google with the search terms “donate computer” will help you find other groups no matter where you live.

If you decide to donate a computer, that’s a fine and generous thing. Over the years I’ve donated — either to groups or to individuals — at least six computers.

But in some cases, you may also be able to put one of those old computers to work right in your home. That’s what I did with my basement rescue. It now serves as a helper in my ham radio room, keeping track of contacts I’ve made and looking up locations of the other radio operators I visit with on the air. Taking a wild guess here most of you won’t be doing that.

But there are plenty of more ordinary uses for an aging and underpowered computer. I’ll give you some examples.

In my home, both my wife and I love to cook. Most of our recipes are scrawled on slips of paper. My chili recipe, for instance, is gradually disappearing under a coating of chili powder and cumin. Any working computer — no matter how old — would do a great job as a kitchen computer. Besides storing recipes it could also help when you need to pare down a recipe meant to serve four when you need to prepare it for six. Or, it could keep inventories of what you have on hand and then create shopping lists. With wireless access to the Internet, it can send those lists to a printer on your network, or roam the Net to hunt up new recipes.

The kitchen — with its steam, water and grease — isn’t the most hospitable location for a computer so you should locate it well out of the line of fire and also make sure that it’s connected to a outlet with ground fault protection (nowadays most bathroom and kitchen outlets have that protection, just be sure). Most office supply stores also sell plastic dust covers for computers and that’s an excellent idea for a kitchen computer.

If the computer eventually breaks down because of the environment, well you haven’t lost much — especially if you’re able to connect it to a network so that your recipes are stored away in another location.

Another great use for an aging computer is as a guest and kid machine. That way your own information is safe from prying eyes or careless use. If it breaks, well — again — you haven’t lost much.

My uncle, an electrical engineeer who spent part of his career working on operating systems, keeps one computer isolated from his home network. Information stored there is completely safe from hackers. And if a destructive virus or worm slips by his protection, the computer in isolation hums on with no problem. So it becomes a storage point for financial records and sensitive material. Properly backed up, it does a great job. In most cases, your old computer can do that just fine.

A more recent computer with a large hard disk could even sure as an online backup server. In many cases, that’s asking too much from an antique. It all depends on what you have on hand.
The great thing about all this is that — by letting an old machine share part of the computer load in your home — you are freeing up your best computers for the most important work like killing space aliens and playing online canasta.

Some of you are coming into some money - $600 to $1,200 that you'll get from the IRS as part of what the newspapers are calling an economic stimulus package.

The idea is that many folks will spend that money. The added spurt of spending will trickle through the economy and make things OK again in theory.

I'm a patrotic guy. So today I'll help you spend your government windfall on high tech gadgets and gizmos.

The easy way out would be to buy a new computer. These days you can get a nice one for $1,200 or an completely adequate one for $600. But, unless your home computer no longer can do what needs doing, I'd advise against it. There are better ways to spend your money.

For instance, it would be smarter to spend part of that money on a black and white laser printer. Ink jet printers consume those expensive cartridges so fast that it's possible to spend an amount equivalent to the cost of the printer in just two or three months of
ink purchases.

Laser printers produce a black and white page at a fraction of the cost. Even with heavy use, cartridges often last months. At the cost of gas these days, eliminating extra trips to the office supply store can add to the savings.

C-net, a site I really trust, lists its top five black and white laser printers at this address: http://reviews.cnet.com/4370-3155_7-146-105.html?tag=lnav. Many of you will recoup the cost of the laser in just a few months. Once you own a laser, you can reserve your ink
jet printer for printing photographs and documents that need to be in color and use the laser for everything else.

You can spend as little as $100 to $200 on a very nice laser printer. That means we have money left. So lets keep shopping.

One of the most satisfactory purchases I've made in the past few years was for a wide-screen LCD monitor. The wide screen lets me put two documents side-by-side on the screen. And the text is easy to read on a large screen. Unlike old CRT monitors, these screens are lighter and - as a bonus - use just a fraction of the electricity.

I've had good luck with screens made by View Sonic, Dell, Sony and HP. Get a screen that's 20-inches or even larger to reap the full benefits. Even in the 21- to 22-inch range, you'll just pay $200 to $300. I promise, switching to a nice screen is like sending your eyeballs on vacation.

You'll notice that even if you followed my advice and purchased a $200 laser printer and a $300 monitor, there's still money left to spend.

So lets be a little crazy and buy something fun. Many of you have HDTV sets now. But not all of you have sound systems to match. Adding a five-speaker sound system makes an enormous difference, especially when watching movies.

Consider a system that uses wireless speakers. In many homes, it's hard to run speaker wires invisibly.

Many systems add a DVD player to the system. If you already own a DVD player, look for a system without one. Here's my thinking on that. The standard for DVD movies is shifting to high definition discs using the Blu-ray format. But I think prices for Blu-ray players will dive over the next year. So you can save money by avoiding that expense.

You'll pay anywhere from $200 to $600 or more for a system that includes speakers, a separate sub-woofer for movie theater-like bass, and a amplifier. Sony, Panasonic, JVC, Denon and Bose all make systems that sound great. Spend some time listening and then decide
how much you'd like to spend.

I'm going to run of space before you run out of money. And there's still so much shopping left to do. So have fun looking at GPS systems for your car, digital cameras, game consoles, fancy cellphones and the like.

And hold your head proud while you spend your money - you're a high tech patriot.

Go ahead, adjust your set

The start of baseball season, for me, is the start of a new year. Things that were once important get less important. Things I didn’t bother with before become big deals.

For most of the year, a decent picture on my HDTV set is good enough. If Paula Deen’s crawfish etoufee looks a little fuzzy, it’s no big deal to me. But now that it’s baseball time, it would be a sin to get less than the best. So today, we’ll tune up your TV and cover some ground we haven’t bothered with before.

Your TV has some basic controls that can make a big difference in picture quality. Adjusting these controls can turn an acceptable picture into a great one.

In the showroom, these controls are often tweaked to make the picture catch the eye. But what catches the eye doesn’t always please it. It’s the same at home, often our picture is adjusted to be too bright and the colors are set so intensely that every the picture almost vibrates.

We can fix that. As my old flight instructor used to say, follow me through at the controls.

Brightness: My guess is that you have this control cranked up too much. Instead of brightness, think of this control as “blackness.” Tune the set to an image that contains pure blacks, or simply pop in your best DVD, find the right image and freeze the picture. Now adjust brightness so blacks are deep and no longer grey. If you go too black, you’ll lose detail in the shadows. So find the best compromise. We’ll come back to this after the other adjustments to tweak the setting.

Contrast: This control ought to be labeled “white level.” That’s what it really adjusts. This time we want to put an image on the screen that has intense whites. A person wearing a white shirt is a good candidate for this one. Set the contrast so the whites don’t turn grey but details aren’t lost. For instance, creases and buttons should be easy to see. If contrast is set too high, the whites will “bloom” and you lose all detail.

Tweak: Go back and readjust brightness a bit, then check contrast again. You may need to go back and forth a few times to balance these settings.

Color: Out of the box, most sets make green grass — the kind you’d find at any great baseball stadium — glow as if it was radioactive. Faces take on a reddish-orange glow. If your set allows you to set color temperature, first select the “warm” option before proceding. Now experiment with the color control until both faces and bright primary colors — like grass — have a natural look.

Hue: Your set may call this tint or hue. Use the image of a face. Play with this control to see how it works. At one end of the scale, faces are green; at the other end they become reddish blue. Try for a setting between the two extremes — no green, no red.

Sharpness: Think of this as the edge control. It adds definition to images by creating artificial outlines. Intuitively it’s hard to be against sharpness. But nature doesn’t outline images. With a good crisp picture on your screen, move the control until there’s no visible outline and things look more as they do in your front yard and less like a cartoon.

Once you’ve gone through these steps, repeat them at least once. This time you will make small adjustments.

When done, you should have a picture that gets the most from your TV. If you’ve become accustomed to a picture that shouts instead of whispers give yourself a few days to get used to the new look.

Those who want to take an extra step can buy a DVD that guides you through the process of adjusting your digital set. Frankly, I don’t think most folks need it. But it’s fine for the purist, or if it gives you more assurance. It also will help you adjust the sound system you use with your TV. It’s called Digital Video Essentials. You should be able to find it at most large consumer electronics stores. If you can’t, Google and you’ll find numerous online merchants that sell it.

Now take a look at what you’ve done. Even the crawfish etoufee looks better.

Take a stand against torture

In my youth there was a form of torture inflicted on both child and adult. Worse yet, it was perfectly legal.

The torture device plugged into an ordinary power outlet. A humming fan kept a high-watt bulb cool so it can be used for hours against innocent people.

Thankfully, slide projectors are now mostly found in closets and basements. You can thank the digital camera.

But even the digital camera can cause pain and embarrassment. These days, perfectly decent humans — perhaps you’re among them — distribute digital photographs by e-mail. We can’t stop that, but maybe we can reduce the pain inflicted by poor photos.

We’ll limit today’s discussion to the point-and-shoot digital cameras most people use. Owners of high-end digital cameras either understand photography or think they do. They are beyond my reach.

Get the advantage

So let’s look at how the common shooter can use the advantages of digital photography while avoiding its disadvantages.

Advantage: You can take as many pictures of a scene as you like without added expense. And you can immediately look at the results. Many folks who grew up in the film generation have a hard time breaking the habit of shooting one or two frames and hoping it comes out well. So it bears repeating: If it’s a shot you want, take it a bunch of times, at different angles or settings. That also allows for the factor known as dumb luck. The more pictures you take, the more likely you’ll catch an especially nice shot.

Disadvantage: The camera’s tiny viewing screen isn’t big enough to show flaws that will be painfully obvious when the photo is shown on a large computer screen. With digital on a computer screen, you’re showing what amounts to a giant enlargement. Tiny flaws become giant problems. So it’s important to learn how to fix photo flaws, and we’ll deal with that next.

Advantage: In the days of film photography, most amateurs relied on the drugstore or photo shop for processing. That usually involved an automated process that produced barely adequate prints. With digital photography, you have the ability to fix mistakes the drugstore wouldn’t have bothered with.

So get comfortable with photo editing software. You’ll be able to adjust for bad exposure or even do minor surgery. What do I mean by surgery? Imagine that a particularly ugly dog wandered into the frame of little Susy’s outdoor wedding reception. Simply clone a patch of grass and — like a great magician — you’ve made a dog disappear. A great all-purpose program: PhotoShop Elements. It can be found at most computer stores or ordered directly at http://www.adobe.com/products/psprelements/.

Advantage: Even inexpensive digital cameras use a computerized exposure technology that’s beyond what was available to most professionals 15 or 20 years ago. Most cameras have settings that let you take pictures in low light, or when most of the pictured area is in strong sunlight but important parts are shaded.

Disadvantage: It’s easy to lean on those automated controls and forget the old-fashioned techniques that film amateurs used to compensate. For instance, when taking a picture of people in the sun, many cameras will think things are just fine. But using the camera’s built-in strobe (flash) will fill in ugly shadows on a face. I promise your subjects will thank you for this one.

This is just a start. You’ll need to experiment with your camera, and I suggest you do so before that big June wedding or July vacation. Then go forth and shoot it up. When you get home you can show your photos without torture.

Help yourself

I can be fairly helpless at times. I misplace my wallet and car keys, have trouble finding the big yellow mustard container in the refrigerator and had to get my stepdaughter’s help to assemble a radio-controlled airplane I got for Christmas.

So I understand how frustrating it can be to be faced with a problem with an HDTV, computer or other gadget you don’t understand. I try to help with my weekly Q&A column, but I can only take a couple of questions a week.

Today we’ll talk about various ways to ease those high-tech frustrations on your own. Keep in mind that — despite what I tell my buddies — I run into all sorts of tech questions that baffle me. These resources have saved my neck many a time.

Google

Google is like having a tireless research assistant with access to mountains of reference books. It’s a good place to start on almost any question. The trick is to be as exact as you can in your query. Let’s say you have an ATI videocard. You’ve tried to use the software that came with the card to load the driver (the tiny piece of software that communicates between the card and your computer) and failed. Use a search like this:

+driver +“won’t load” +ATI

That tells Google with the + sign that the word must be in the results. If I did the same search without the plus signs, I’d get some pages that contained the word “driver” but that didn’t mention the other terms at all. Next, by putting quote marks around the “won’t load” statement, I’ve told Google that the page must include those words in that order. Using a search engine correctly can make a huge difference in the results you get.

Manufacturers

Often I hear from readers who have spent weeks trying to puzzle out a problem. I’ll ask them if they contacted the manufacturer. Too often, they hadn’t.

Even a tech genius knows less about a gadget than the folks who built it.

If a feature of the gadget, or software, is hard to figure out, they’ve heard about it from customers and often have come up with a better explanation. If something doesn’t work right, they’ve probably heard about it and designed a fix.

Most manufacturers have a Web page that includes a link to answers to support questions that they’ve received. You’ll also find a link to a download section — that’s especially handy when you need to download drivers and other support software. You’ll often find “bug fix” programs that will fix a defect in software.

Web forums

Sometimes called user groups, these are Web pages that are not sponsored by the manufacturer. They draw people who are interested in a specific software program or hardware device.

There are lots of these places. You’ll be able to post a message asking a question of others who are interested in the program or device you own.

The upside? You’ll often hear critical comments that would be off-limits from a manufacturer site. And since these people are enthusiastic enough about the product to gather together to talk about it, there are plenty of experts available.

The downside? I’d guess that at least 70 percent of the posters are coming there to get help, not offer advice. And some of those who offer help will be flat wrong. So if you get a suggested fix, try to check it out with others. If it involves doing anything radical to the device or software — something that could cause more damage — don’t just think twice. Think four or five times.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ll help you when I can. But there’s something really satisfying about figuring out a problem for yourself. And, along the way, you learn more about the product, and that prepares you for the inevitable new problems.

I recommend many free programs. When I do that, it’s because I prefer them to commercial versions — after all, I often get free copies of commercial programs. So my choices aren’t often dictated by cost. I genuinely prefer the free programs I recommend.

The flip side is, when I stick with for-pay programs, that’s a strong recommendation. Today I’ll talk about some of those choices. I will try to explain why I like the program, and also offer free or inexpensive alternatives for those who choose to go that route.

Topping my list of commercial programs is Microsoft Office. I could use OpenOffice.org — a free group of programs that pretty much mimics the chores that Microsoft Office will do. Many users like it. You can download it at http://www.openoffice.org/.

So why stay with Microsoft’s for-pay version? For one thing, it is the standard of the business world. Everything from the word processor to the spreadsheet program and Power Point for making slides is the de facto choice. It’s a safe choice.

If I need to open a file created by someone else, or send a file to a business, I’m on solid ground. I also have stayed with Office because, frankly, it’s what I’ve used for many years. I’m comfortable with how it works and I don’t want to spend the time messing with another group of programs. That’s especially true with Word.

Don’t discount the comfort factor.

When it comes to defragmenting my hard disk, I like a professional program called Diskeeper. It costs $30 and can be ordered on a disk or downloaded at http://www.diskeeper.com/defrag.asp.

It’s about the best $30 I’ve spent on software. The defragmenting programs that come with Microsoft Windows rank somewhere between inferior and barely adequate. They’re sure better than nothing.

Defragmenting can make a huge difference in how fast your computer operates. Files get stored helter skelter by Windows. Putting those files together, and placing the files that you use most often in the fastest area of the hard disk, makes a difference you can see.

For $30, you are almost certain to end up with a computer that runs faster. And, if the hard disk eventually crashes, it’s easier to retrieve information from a disk that has been defragmented.

I love photography and I do all my editing with PhotoShop CS. It’s an amazing program — and amazingly difficult to master. It’s also expensive: $650. I realize that is more than most amateur photographers would be willing to pay and I don’t blame you It costs more than most amateur cameras.

But there’s a simpler version — Adobe Photoshop Elements 6 — that sells for $80. You can find both PhotoShop CS and Photoshop Elements at the www.adobe.com Web site.

My wife, who takes a lot of digital pictures for her real estate job, actually prefers Elements. It’s easier to use and does a fine job. It can even do what nature has failed at — giving me a full head of hair.

For those who prefer a free version of a photo editing program, use the one that came with your camera or with your storage system. In some cases, that program will be Photoshop Elements. If so, you’re in luck.

Free and inexpensive programs are a smart way to go. But I have found that there are times in life when it makes sense to call in the pros.

Growing up in small town Arkansas, I had an aunt who delighted in misfortune. She wasn’t a bad person, but she liked nothing better than being the first to spread word of illness, misfortune or even some vague premonition of bad times ahead.

Sometimes I feel a little like Aunt Phyllis. I spend a great deal of time telling you to worry and fear all sorts of threats. Viruses, adware, spyware, worms, hackers, scams, phisher attacks . . . the list of my reasons to worry goes on and on.

All these can be real threats. But sometimes such worries take on exaggerated importance. I know people who worry so much about computer risks that it’s turned computing into a chore.
So let’s take a break and talk about some common questions that shouldn’t worry you.

“Should I leave my computer on, or turn it off?”

Over the years, as technology has changed, the typical questions I get from readers have changed too. But not this one. People worried in 1993, and they fret about it today. Stop worrying. When it comes to a desktop computer, you’re probably safe leaving it turned on 24/7. Or you can do what I do and turn it off when you’re away from the computer for more than three or four hours at a time. (Things are different with a laptop, these smaller computers don’t do as good of a job keeping cool when left on continuously.)

“What can I do about cookies?”

My gosh, you’d think these things were filled with poison. They seem to have the power to reduce the sanest of people into deep despair. Truth is that cookies are just tiny text files that some Web sites use to identify you.

While it’s true that hacker sites and X-rated sites can do mischief with cookies, you needn’t worry about them if you stay in safe neighborhoods on the Web. In fact, cookies make computing better. For instance, Weather.com uses cookies to allow users to create their own pages filled with information about cities of special interest. Here’s a Web site — http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTTP_cookie — for those who want to read more about cookies. You’ll see the misconceptions about them as well as ways to guard against them.

“OK, so far. But viruses are really something to worry about, right?”

Yes, although I can tell you that a virus has never done damage to computers in my home. That’s because I use good anti-virus software and keep it updated. I get a lot of e-mail, visit plenty of Web sites (including hacker sites). Once, nutty as this seems, a reader naively sent me an e-mail with a virus attached asking for me to identify it. No harm was done. So worry about viruses long enough to install a good anti-virus program and keep it up-to-date. Then chill.

“But it’s hard to chill when hackers are out to get me.”

Well, not really. Yes, there are hackers out there, but they are mostly looking for targets where real money is to be made. Hackers fall into several groups. There are the amateurs — some very skilled — who often work together to shutdown Web sites or create other dramatic exploits that help give them status. Then there are the real professionals. They aren’t going to the trouble of breaking into random computers in the hope of stealing your Aunt Vera’s recipe for tuna casserole. If you enable the firewall on Windows and use a router (which adds another layer of protection) you probably will never face a serious attack on your home computer.

“So my computing life is worry free now, right?”

There’s too much of Aunt Phyllis in me to leave you fat and happy. So I’ll leave you with a last thought: My No. 1 candidate for the culprit who creates the most danger to your computer is you (don’t feel bad, I’m in the same boat). I’ve seen more damage done by inept “fixing” than from all the viruses and hackers in the world.